How to Build a Twin Day Bed

How to Build a Twin Day Bed

Day beds are versatile pieces of furniture that don’t have to be confined to a bedroom.

Place a twin-sized one in a den for both comfy lounge seating and a spare bed for guests.

Here’s how to build one yourself. 


Why is it called a day bed? Because it can be made in a day! (3 Echoes Content Studio)

Materials

Cut List

These are the cuts you’ll need for a twin day bed. You can alter the dimensions depending on the size of your mattress.

  • (4) 2×3 at 34-1/2 inches (legs)
  • (4) 2×3 at 40 inches (side rails)
  • (2) 3/4-inch plywood at 40 inches by 26-1/2 inches (side panels)
  • (1) 3/4-inch plywood at 77 inches by 26-1/2 inches (back panel)
  • (2) 1×4 at 34-3/4 inches (side rails)
  • (1) 1×3 at 77 inches (back rail)
  • (1) 1×6 at 77 inches (front rail)
  • (3) 1×3 at 77 inches (mattress slat supports)
  • (2) 1×3 at 40 inches (mattress slat supports)
  • (17) 1×3 at 41-1/2 inches (mattress slats)

Build Side Frames

Drilling in wood screws into a bed frame
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

Begin by cutting the 2-by-3’s for the two side frames. Layout these parts on a table and attach the horizontal rails between the vertical supports. 

Drilling a countersink bit
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

Pre-drill with a countersink bit so you can putty over the screw holes later. 

Ridgid circular saw cutting plywood
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

When both sides are assembled, cut two pieces of plywood to the inside dimensions of the frames.

Hammering plywood into the frame of a daybed
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

The plywood panels fit inside the frames, centered on the 2-by-3. 

Drilling wood screws into a bed frame
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

Fasten the plywood using the same technique used on the frame. 


Assembling a bed frame
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

Connect Sides to Back Panel

To construct the back of the day bed, join the two sides with 2-by-3’s at the top and bottom that are the same length as the mattress.

Cut another plywood panel to fit into this opening and attach it just like the side panels.  


Add Support and Front Skirt

Nail a wood frame on a day bed
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

Next, attach 1-by-3s to the inside of the bottom rails using finish nails.

Nailing a wood frame on a bed
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

Cap the top of the frame on both sides and the back with more 1-by-3’s. 

Nailing a front skirt to a day bed
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

Across the front of the bed, nail a 1-by-6 skirt board between the sides, flush with the inside edge of the frame.

Nail gun nailing a front skirt to a bed
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

Screw in a 2-by-3 behind the front skirt to support it.

Drilling a support beam for a bed
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

Next, add another 2-by-3 support midway between the front and back of the bed. 


Bed slats on a frame
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

Add support slats

Attach the 1-by-3 slats that will support the mattress from front to back. Space them at about three-inch intervals. 


Man applying caulk to day bed
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

Paint and Add Caning

Next, prime the frame. Caulk all the seams for a seamless finish.

Then, apply two coats of paint. 

Staple gun and caning on the back of a day bed
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

The final touch is the addition of caning panels on the sides and back of the bed.

Roll the caning out and cut it to size. Then, staple it in place.

Attach a piece of narrow molding to conceal the ragged edges and give the bed a finished look.


Further Reading

Elegant DIY Wood and Glass Trough Vase

Elegant DIY Wood and Glass Trough Vase

Elegant DIY Glass Trough Vase
Photo: Faith Towers

As a borderline obsessive flower lover, I’m always on the hunt for new vases and centerpiece ideas. So when I ran across a beautiful rectangular glass container on Amazon, I knew I had to have it (and make something out of it, of course). Click through to check out the resulting trough-style vase that I came up with.   

Elegant DIY Glass Trough Vase
Photo: Faith Towers

It has space for four stems, and all four draw from the trough of water below. The wooden top is removable, and keeps the stems securely in place. And it’s really quite simple to make! So let’s get started.

Elegant DIY Glass Trough Vase
Photo: Faith Towers

Here’s what you’ll need for your trough vase:

  • Rectangular Centerpiece Vase
  • Two pieces of wood, size 10×4″ and 9.5 x 3.5″
  • Wood glue
  • Acrylic craft paint
  • Painter’s tape
  • Drill with 1/2″ drill bit (or similar)
  • Foam brush
  • Pencil
  • Ruler
  • Sandpaper
Elegant DIY Glass Trough Vase
Photo: Faith Towers

Before you begin, make sure that the larger piece of wood has the exact same measurements as the outside of the glass centerpiece vase and that the smaller piece fits snugly in the interior of the top of the glass vase. If not, sand it down so that it fits nicely. Apply a healthy dose of glue to the larger piece of wood, leaving about a 1/2 inch glue-less around the edges.  

Elegant DIY Glass Trough Vase
Photo: Faith Towers

Place the smaller piece of wood on top of the larger one, pressing down firmly. Make sure it is centered. Let it dry for a minute or two until it is quite tacky but not completely adhered.

Elegant DIY Glass Trough Vase
Photo: Faith Towers

Place it on top of the glass centerpiece vase to make sure that the wood pieces are aligned so that they fit perfectly into the top of the glass vase. Remove it and let it dry for a couple of hours.

Elegant DIY Glass Trough Vase
Photo: Faith Towers

Next, find the horizontal center line of the wood and place four dots along that line as shown above. They should be evenly spaced, with two inches between each dot. Drill a hole down through each mark. Don’t forget to place a piece of scrap wood underneath. Sand any rough edges.

Elegant DIY Glass Trough Vase
Photo: Faith Towers

Mask off a 3/4 inch perimeter around the top using painter’s tape. Press firmly around the edges so that they form a strong bond to the wood.

Elegant DIY Glass Trough Vase
Photo: Faith Towers

Paint inside this taped-off rectangle with acrylic craft paint in the color of your choice.

Elegant DIY Glass Trough Vase
Photo: Faith Towers

Remove the tape, let the paint dry, and you’re finished! Fill the glass vase with water and insert four stems for a unique centerpiece for your dinner table, kitchen island or accent table.

Elegant DIY Glass Trough Vase
Photo: Faith Towers

This is sure to be a conversation starter, thanks to its unusual design and contemporary vibe. You can change the look of it by trying different types of flowers… calla lilies would lend a modern feel, while daisies would give it a more rustic sensibility.

Elegant DIY Glass Trough Vase
Photo: Faith Towers

You might also consider a different color or even a different finish for the top part – a dark stain would be beautiful, or a metallic rose gold would look super glam. 

Elegant DIY Glass Trough Vase
Photo: Faith Towers
Elegant DIY Glass Trough Vase
Photo: Faith Towers

While this project looks like it would be difficult to complete, it’s actually surprisingly simple and quick to finish. You should be able to do it in an hour or two (not including drying time), depending on how quickly you work. Feel free to post questions or links to your own versions in the comments section below!

Elegant DIY Glass Trough Vase
Share this post on Pinterest! [Photo: Faith Towers]
How to Make a Stop Block For Longer Wood Cuts

How to Make a Stop Block For Longer Wood Cuts

A stop block makes cutting multiple pieces of wood on a miter saw faster and easy. 

A stop block is a simple reusable jig used in woodworking to mark an edge so multiple pieces of wood can be cut quickly and uniformly.

It can get tiresome to stop and measure each piece before you cut it, so built-in stop blocks keep you working at a steady and fast pace.

The hold-down clamps that come with most power miter saws are useful for securing a stop block when making repetitive cuts. But they’re only useful for cutting short pieces because it limits the length of board you can cut.

For bigger projects like decks and railing, long cuts of wood typically won’t fit within a standard stop block. Cutting these pieces shouldn’t take up the majority of your time. This time is better spent on getting these pieces together and your project complete. 

However, you can make an extended stop block using a framing square. This technique works well for making repetitive cuts between about 16 inches and 23 inches long. 

Here’s how you do it:

A framing square clamped to a miter saw as a stop block.

First, use two spring clamps or short bar clamps to secure the framing square to the saw’s fence. Extend it out to the length you need the board to be.

Check to confirm the distance from the blade to the vertical tongue of the framing square equals the desired length of the pieces you’re cutting. 

A lumber board on a miter saw being pushed toward a framing square stop block.

Then, carefully slide the board up against the edge of the square’s tongue and make the cut.

Repeat to make repetitive cuts to produce pieces of all the same exact length. 

Watch the video above for the demonstration!


Further Reading

Creating a Stop Block For Longer Wood Cuts

Creating a Stop Block For Longer Wood Cuts

A stop block makes cutting multiple pieces of wood on a miter saw faster and easy. 

A stop block is a simple reusable jig used in woodworking to mark an edge so multiple pieces of wood can be cut quickly and uniformly.

It can get tiresome to stop and measure each piece before you cut it, so built-in stop blocks keep you working at a steady and fast pace.

The hold-down clamps that come with most power miter saws are useful for securing a stop block when making repetitive cuts. But they’re only useful for cutting short pieces because it limits the length of board you can cut.

For bigger projects like decks and railing, long cuts of wood typically won’t fit within a standard stop block. Cutting these pieces shouldn’t take up the majority of your time. This time is better spent on getting these pieces together and your project complete. 

However, you can make an extended stop block using a framing square. This technique works well for making repetitive cuts between about 16 inches and 23 inches long. 

Here’s how you do it:

A framing square clamped to a miter saw as a stop block.

First, use two spring clamps or short bar clamps to secure the framing square to the saw’s fence. Extend it out to the length you need the board to be.

Check to confirm the distance from the blade to the vertical tongue of the framing square equals the desired length of the pieces you’re cutting. 

A lumber board on a miter saw being pushed toward a framing square stop block.

Then, carefully slide the board up against the edge of the square’s tongue and make the cut.

Repeat to make repetitive cuts to produce pieces of all the same exact length. 

Watch the video above for the demonstration!


Further Reading