Corey and Grace really like a dark green color for the guest bedroom, so to keep the room from feeling dark and uninviting, they’re only going to use that color for an accent wall.
And to add some visual interest to the accent wall, we’re going to add some board and batten.
We space each batten about 16 inches apart — about the standard width each stud is spaced. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
For the battens, we space out ½-inch by 2¾-inch boards about 16 inches apart on the wall, then attach them with finishing nails and construction adhesive.
Once all the battens are in place, we caulk the edges and apply two coats of paint to the whole wall.
To save space, we install floating shelves next to the bed instead of placing bulky nightstands. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
Build/Install Floating Shelves
Bulky nightstands can make this guest room feel cluttered, so instead, we’re attaching floating shelves to the sides of the bed.
The floating shelves are essentially a box made from To make the floating shelves, we build a box with a 1-by-6 board on top, a half-inch-by-6-inch board on the bottom, and 1-by-2 pieces wrapping the edges.
We mixed two stain shades to create a color that matches the headboard. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
Once assembled, we sand the shelves and stain them to match the headboard.
To keep the floating shelves secure, we add wood glue to the cleat before we slip them on. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
To hang the shelves, we first screw cleats into the wall, then slip the shelves on and secure them with finishing nails and wood glue.
For additional lighting, we’re adding some wall-mounted sconces on either side of the bed.
Rerouting the wiring was simple because the wall had two outlets where we needed to place our wall sconces. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
To do this, we first have to reroute the wiring from the electrical outlet to where the sconces will be hung on the wall. We cut a hole in the drywall where the sconces will be mounted, then fish the electrical wires up to the hole.
Once the wires are set, we follow the instructions to install them.
Corey’s extra bedroom was just that — it lacked any real identity. The hardware and paint color lifted by the previous homeowners didn’t make the welcoming statement they wanted for their guests.
But now, the room has a clear purpose and that’s to make guests feel right at home. The board and batten accent wall draws you into the space and the custom trim around the windows tells you they were intentional about making this room nice for you.
The floating shelves and nightstand are functional for short-term guests without taking up as much space as larger pieces of furniture. And the warm wood tones complement the cool green accent wall, just as the gold wall sconces do.
The ingeniously simple speed square is the most practical and useful hand tool for any carpenter or do-it-yourself.
Also called a rafter square, this multi-purpose triangular carpenters’ tool packs so many features into such a small tool that at first glance it might be confusing how to use it.
So, we’ve broken down its five uses for you:
Make accurate 90-degree or 45-degree cuts by lining up the saw with the edge of a speed square. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
1. Make accurate cuts. Because of its triangular shape, a speed square is great for making square crosscuts or 45-degree lines. Simply line up the edge to a board to cut the right angle every time.
2. Mark angles. A speed square has a pivot point, so you hold it against the edge of the board and rotate it to mark any angle. For example, let’s say we want to mark a 30-degree angle. Simply hold the edge of the speed square against the edge of a board, then pivot it to line up with the 30-degree mark on the speed square.
Place a pencil in the quarter-inch notch, then slide the speed square along the board to draw a straight line. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
3. Use it as a scribing tool. Let’s say you want to make a parallel line one inch from the edge of a board. A speed square has quarter-inch notches on its inside, so you can put your pencil in the one-inch notch and slide it along the board. Then, you’ll have an even line one inch from the edge.
The diamond cutout is three and a half inches from the edge, the same width as a 2-by-4. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
4. Mark the width of 2-by-4.A speed square has a diamond cutout exactly three and a half inches to the edge of the square, which is exactly the width of a 2-by-4. So if you put your pencil in there and slide it along that line, this will is exactly the width of a two-by-four.
5. Use it as a saw guide. Probably the most useful and obviously practical application of a speed square is as a saw guide. Just take the square, hold it against the board’s edge and guide the saw right against the square. You’ll get a straight cut every time!
Pink fiberglass insulation is nothing new, but the folks at Owens Corning have completely re-imagined it with their PINK Next Gen Fiberglas Insulation.
Read on to learn how this new fiberglass insulation makes for hassle-free installation with clean, fast, precise results.
This page contains affiliate links. If you purchase a product from these links, we will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.
These insulation batts come in pre-cut lengths to save time, making them the ideal choice for framed cavities.
And when you need to make cuts, the batts split cleanly and the batts recover instantly without fluffing. That means the product fills the cavities you’re trying to insulate more completely, so you get the perfect fit.
Danny Lipford chats with Jeremy Moore from Lighthouse Electrical Designs on this week’s “Ask Danny podcast.” (3 Echoes Content Studio/ledmob.com)
This week, electrical contractor and owner of Lighthouse Electrical Designs Jeremy Moore gives a crash course on what you need to know about your home’s electrical work.
I’ve worked with his father for many years, and Jeremy’s work has been featured on Today’s Homeowner TV show multiple times, including just recently in this how-to project from the breezeway transformation episode.
Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter Breakers and Outlets
Q: What are GFCI Breakers and Outlets and how do they make the home safer?
Jeremy: Ground fault circuit interrupter breaker offers personal protection. A regular breaker provides overcurrent protection. So, if it’s a 20 amp breaker, it will provide up to 20 amps of power. It doesn’t care what it’s providing that to. If it’s going through your body, as long as you’re not drawing over 20 amps over a length of time, it’s going to continue to provide it.
The advantage of the breaker is it protects the entire circuit from the time it leaves the panel to the end use. The advance of the outlet is its cheaper and easier to install, especially for a homeowner to work with.
Ground fault circuit interrupters outlets have two wires (one grounded and one ungrounded) to constantly track electrical current flow; if they detect a change, they immediately cut power to the outlet. This is helpful if you drop an appliance — like a hair dryer — into a sink or tub filled with water. GFCIs are often found in kitchens and bathrooms, as well as outdoor areas, garages and crawl spaces.
LED light bulbs last longer and use less power than incandescent. (aliaksandrbarysenka)
LED vs. Incandescent
Q: What’s your take on the advantages of LED bulbs and the obsolescence of incandescents?
Jeremy: In a nutshell, you get what you pay for. I like to stick with common brands that have a track record behind them.
A lot of people who go for LED are going for that longevity and power savings. They also run cooler, and use a quarter of the power of incandescent.
However, it’s the Wild West out there on the available products. I’ve tried so many .. some are good some are not. That’s the advantage of using a contractor, because they’ve already gone through the process and know the brands to trust.
When taking down walls, don’t damage any wiring behind them. (Jens_Lambert_Photography, Getty Images)
DIY Remodeling
Q: If a homeowner wants to take on a remodel themselves, what do you recommend that they do before they start tearing out walls or cabinets that may have wires running through them?
Jeremy: First off, make sure everything works the way it’s supposed to, so you’re not going in with problems.
Secondly, label everything in the area and confirm that it’s labeled correctly on the panel.
As you tear into those things, turn off power where you don’t think you need it. Say you’re demoing the kitchen, run a few cords from the living room and turn off the walls you’re working on.
Always assume there is something behind the wall. Don’t plunge the saw four inches into the wall on the first go.
Updating old electrical work is best done by professionals. (cyano66, Getty Images Pro)
Outdated Wiring
Q: Some of our listeners live in older homes that may have outdated wiring such as aluminum wiring or two wire outlets or both. In your opinion, should the homeowner be concerned and upgrade the wiring or are they safe to leave it as it is?
Jeremy: When we say aluminum, mostly what people are referring to is the smaller circuits, like lighting and receptacles.
As far as aluminum in the homes, it will be phased out eventually by banks and insurance companies. While working at Lighthouse Electrical Designs, I’ve seen A lot of places have a hard time securing financing or insurance on properties that have aluminum wiring.
My advice: Having aluminum in your home is not a reason to sell it immediately, but at some point, it does have to be phased out. Don’t mess with it on your own. There are so many different products required now to work with it, so call a professional who’s worked with aluminum wiring before.
If you’re remodeling in stages, remodel as you go. You don’t want to have to wait until after you put that backsplash in the kitchen to fix it.
We’re helping a couple who aren’t strangers to do-it-yourself projects.
Matt and Lindsey Binion bought their mid-1950s house in the midtown area of Mobile, Ala., a few years ago and have been busy making it their own ever since.
After completely renovating their kitchen because of a water leak, they installed their old kitchen cabinets in the laundry room to give it a bit of a facelift. However, its overall look and functionality need some improvement. So, we’re here to help!
The Projects
The new cabinet configuration works with the room instead of against it. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
Rearrange the Cabinets
Matt and Lindsey were on the right path when they repurposed the old kitchen cabinets for storage, but their configuration just wasn’t working for the room.
There were large gaps between the cabinets and the walls, and items ended up being placed all around. The room was treated more like an indoor garage than a laundry room.
So, we reposition them and remove some to create storage that makes sense for what the couple needed from it.
Then we sand, prime and paint the cabinets a fresh new color.
Lindsay won’t have to wash clothes in the kitchen sink now that she has a utility sink in the laundry room. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
Add a Utility Sink
In a house with four boys, a laundry room with a utility sink is a must.
Lindsey has been using their new kitchen sink to wash their boys’ muddy clothes after sports practices. And after handwashing, she has no place to hang clothes to dry.
To install the utility sink, we first moved the water and dryer so we could access the plumbing. Unfortunately, we found some water damage behind the wall.
Unbeknownst to the couple, water had been dripping from the cross-linked polyethylene, or PEX, line for a few days. We immediately cap the line with a Sharkbite cap until the plumber arrives to install the sink.
Our plumber uses an oscillating saw to cut the PVC pipe so it can be rerouted to the sink. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
When our plumber arrives, we cut a hole in the drywall so he can access the pipes and reroute them to the spot the sink will be. The plumber then runs the new drain line for the sink and extends the water supply lines from the spot where we capped the leak.
We then replace the drywall around the new pipes and finally install the laundry sink cabinet and sink.
The luxury vinyl tile is the same flooring in the kitchen, so now the two rooms are connected. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
Replace Flooring
The tile grout on the laundry room floor is coming loose, so we’re going to replace it with some leftover luxury vinyl tile that the couple used in their kitchen renovation.
Thankfully, we caught the water leak in the hex pipe just in time for us to treat the subfloor with antimicrobial spray and let it dry overnight. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
After we remove the tiles and backer board with a pry bar, we find a wet spot on the subfloor where the PEX pipe was leaking. Because we caught the water leak early, we won’t have to replace the subfloor. We use some dehumidifiers and fans to dry it out overnight, and then treat it with an antimicrobial spray to make sure no mold comes up through the floor.
To level out the subfloor, we mix some floor patch compound that he spreads over the surface to fill in low spots and smooth out the transitions. We then installed the rectangular luxury vinyl tile long-ways in the room to complement the narrow room.
The new cabinet has room for everyone’s laundry basket, plus plenty of countertop space for folding. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
Install Countertops and Cubbies
Matt and Lindsey used a piece of plywood as a makeshift countertop for the repurposed kitchen cabinets. But, the plywood wasn’t a prime surface for folding laundry, so the couple was forced to pile laundry in the living room and fold them from their couch.
To make this counter space more functional, we first install 1-by-2 cleats to support a new butcher block countertop as well as a shelf unit that will organize the kids’ laundry baskets.
We use 3/4-inch plywood and 1×2 boards to create the cubbies for the laundry baskets. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
For our shelf unit, we cut our wood pieces on a table saw outside and assemble them with nails and wood glue. We then attach them to the cleat we installed next to the base cabinets.
Polyurethane seals the butcher block countertop so it’s more durable. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
Next, Lindsey coats the butcher block with polyurethane. After that’s dry, we install the countertop over the shelving unit and base cabinets.
Matt and Lindsey had a decent-sized laundry room with lots of storage space, but because it had been thrown together with salvage materials from an emergency kitchen renovation, the surfaces all looked a little worse for wear and the room lacked the thoughtful organization and visual appeal they really wanted for the space.
But now, the old recycled cabinets have a clean new look and a simplified layout that works with the room rather than overpowering it. The new luxury vinyl tile flooring has replaced the old cracked ceramic tiles and connects the room to the rest of the house.
The laundry sink makes the family’s everyday chores easier and less stressful, especially with the hanging space directly above it and the new countertop is both attractive and useful for a family with lots of laundry to fold.
Plus. We did it all for less than $2,000 in materials.
Other Tips From This Episode
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The tile we’re using has a built-in pad so there’s no need to install an underlayment. Start in a corner of the longest wall in the room, placing the tiles with the tongue side out.
The tongue on luxury vinyl tile is the small flat edge on one side of the tile that’s angled to lock into the bottom side of another tile (the groove side).
Cut the outer boards down to ensure you have equal-sized pieces on either side of the room. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
To ensure we have equal-sized cut pieces on either side of the room, we cut our first row of tiles down to 8 and 3/4 inches.
Luxury vinyl tile expands and contracts, so give it some room by spacing it about 3/8 of an inch away from the wall. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
Space each piece about 3/8 of an inch from the wall so there’s room for expansion. For this luxury vinyl tile, we’re aligning them with the base molding because it’s a little wider than that measurement.
On the first row, you’ll only need to snap the end joints together. For the next row, align the end joint then tilt the tile down so the longer joint lines up.
Staggering the rows prevents unattractive gaps between the luxury vinyl tile. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
Offset each new row by half from the previous one before tapping both joints in place with a rubber mallet.
You don’t have to use a saw to cut luxury vinyl tile. Simply score it with a utility knife and snap it off. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
When you need to cut the tile, simply align the tile and mark the edges at the obstacle, then connect the lines using a speed square. Cuts can be made with a saw or with a utility knife to score and snap the tiles.
