Today’s Homeowner Radio Show Podcast | August 20, 2022

Today’s Homeowner Radio Show Podcast | August 20, 2022

This week, learn tips for preventing buckling floors and removing wall mirrors. (Banepx, Getty Images/DmitriiSimakov, Getty Images)

Hour 1

In Hour 1, listen to learn about fire concerns with open floor plans, fixing a sticky vinyl floor and more. 


Fire Safety and Open Floor Plans

Open floor plans are easy on the eyes, but they also make it easy for a fire to spread. (PC Photography, Getty Images)

Nowadays, everyone wants an open floor plan, but keep this in mind: The National Fire Protection Association warns about fire concerns that go along with them. 

Since 1980, the number of house fires has been cut in half, due to smoke alarms, but since 2010, house fire deaths have been on the rise.

Part of the reason for this is open floor plans. With fewer walls, fires can spread more quickly. Also, modern homes are built mostly with synthetic materials that burn much faster than natural materials. 

30 years ago, you had about 15-17 minutes to escape a house fire. Today, the National Fire Protection Association says you only have about three to five minutes.

To increase your chances of surviving a house fire, make sure your smoke alarms are in working order. You should check them at least twice a year. A good time to do this is when time changes in the spring and fall. 

The National Fire Protection Association also recommends new homeowners go a step further and seek out homes with fire sprinklers or ask for this technology when building a new home. 

Having a combination of smoke alarms and fire sprinklers in a home can significantly cut your risk of injury or worse from fire; the home fire death rate is an astounding 90 percent lower when hardwired smoke alarms and fire sprinklers are present. 

And of course, make sure your family has an escape plan


Sticky Vinyl Floor

wood look tile brakerfloor texture wood ceramic
A sticky vinyl floor might mean its protective coating has worn off. (Adobe Stock)

Jeffery Winig has 20-year-old vinyl flooring in his Saratoga Springs, N.Y., home.  

“I’m having problems trying to keep the floors clean and non-sticky. Any suggestions on products that will clean and/or seal the floors would be greatly appreciated,” he asks. 

It sounds like the protective coating on the vinyl floor has probably worn off. 

All vinyl floors have a clear wear layer on the top to protect the floor. Over time, it can wear off and expose the flooring’s resilient core. This can make the floor feel sticky, which then attracts dirt and makes them harder to clean. 

The easy way to tell if the wear layer is missing is to test a spot that hasn’t had a lot of foot traffic. If that spot is easier to clean, then the coating has probably worn off. 

We suggest resealing the floor with a commercial sealer, like CoverTec VinylGuard WB Polyurethane Vinyl Floor Sealer or Mohawk E-Z Vinyl Sealer. The only downside is these products are relatively expensive. 

Try installing luxury vinyl tiling over the existing vinyl floor. It’s fairly easy to install and holds up great to foot traffic. 


Hour 2

In Hour 2, hear how to prevent laminate floors from buckling, remove floor-to-ceiling mirrors, get rid of moles and more. 


Preventing Laminate Floor Buckling

Ruined wooden floor by moisture and water
Buckling floors can be caused by too much moisture in the air. (Banepx, Getty Images)

A listener has a vacation home that’s only occupied a few months out of the year, and he wants to know the best way to prevent buckling and shrinking on the laminate floor.

“What should I keep the A/C unit set to as far as the high and the low settings?” he asks. 

Preventing buckling has more to do with humidity than temperature. Moisture in the air causes expansion and contraction, so get a dehumidifier to remove as much of it as possible.  

Since this is your vacation home and you’re not there all the time, get a small one that can be set on your countertop and have the drain directed toward the sink. That way there’s no chance of any overflow causing water damage to the floor. 

Also, keep this in mind: buckling usually happens if there isn’t enough expansion space left around the perimeter of the room. Check to see if there is enough space between the flooring and the wall for the boards to naturally expand. 

As for the temperature setting, I keep the air conditioner in my vacation home set at 76 degrees Fahrenheit. At one time, I set it at 78 degrees Fahrenheit, but mold and mildew started to form. I’ve found that at 76 degrees Fahrenheit, there’s enough air exchange to prevent that.


Removing a Mirror From a Wall

Large wall mirrors can be dangerous to remove. (DmitriiSimakov, Getty Images)

Shirley in Anchorage, Alaska says: “One wall in our dining area has floor-to-ceiling mirrors, and I hate them. Is there an easy, safe way to remove them?”

Removing floor-to-ceiling mirrors can be dangerous, because broken glass can cause serious injuries.

Take all precautions to protect yourself. Wear long sleeves, leather gloves, and a full face shield so you won’t get injured if any glass breaks away.

Use a large putty knife to pry off the edge of the mirror to see how they’re fastened. Most of the time, there’s more than one way it’s fastened to the wall. They could be glued or held in place by clips. 

If they’re clipped to the wall, simply unscrew the clips to remove the mirror.

If the mirrors are glued to the wall, take a putty knife and slip it behind the mirror. Sooner or later, the drywall or glue will eventually give, but it could shatter.

You also can try running a nylon string or a piano wire behind it. There’s also a tool you can get from the auto parts store called a windshield cutout wire. It’s a long wire with teeth on it and handles on the end. Run it behind the mirror and saw it back and forth to remove it. 

If you’re not comfortable with removing it yourself, call a professional. 


Moles Vs. Voles

Split image of a mole and a vole
Moles and voles — both can wreak havoc on your lawn. (Tuned_In, Getty Images/Leopardinatree, Getty Images Signature)

William recently purchased a home with a small pond, and he says he has a large vole problem. He’s tried sonic noise devices, but they haven’t had any effect. 

“Is there a non-toxic way to get rid of the voles and grubs they eat? I don’t want to harm the fish in the pond,” William asks. 

One part of eliminating any rodent problem is to get rid of their food source. 

One clue here is when William mentions “the grubs they eat.” Voles are vegetarians, so the problem might be moles, not voles.

Here’s an easy way to remember the difference between the two: Voles are vegetarians, and their name starts with a “v.” Moles are meat-eaters, and their name starts with an “m.” 

Voles look like field mice with short tails, compact heavy bodies, small eyes, and partially hidden ears, according to Clemson Cooperative Extension. They are 5-8 inches long and have prominent orange teeth for gnawing plant roots and stems.

Moles, on the other hand, are 4-7 inches long with paddle-shaped feet and prominent digging claws. They have an elongated head and snout, small eyes, and no external ears.

You can try treating your lawn with an herbicide to kill the grubs. However, this will only help slightly, because moles eat other insects as well. 

If you really want to get rid of the moles in your yard, the only surefire way is to trap them. Follow trap directions exactly, because improper placement of the trap will doom your efforts! 

While you can’t control whether or not new moles will move in, trapping lets you know for sure that you’ve eliminated the ones you have. Before you begin, make sure mole trapping is legal in your state.

Read our guide on How to Deal With Moles In Your Yard for more methods.


Best New Products

Alta Forest Products Premium Treated Dog-Ear Fence Pickets are wider, so you need fewer boards for a privacy fence.
Learn more >>

Simple Solutions

Using vinegar to clean a clogged showerhead. (3 Echoes Content Studio)

Unclogging Showerheads — High mineral content in water can create a crusty buildup on showerheads, creating a weak, erratic spray. Fix this by soaking the showerhead in white distilled vinegar.

You can remove the showerhead and submerge it in a bucket of vinegar, or fill a plastic food-storage bag with vinegar, slip it over the showerhead and secure it with twine or twist-ties.

Allow the showerhead to soak in vinegar for 24-48 hours. 

Watch: How to Clean a Clogged Showerhead

Mount a PVC pipe underneath a shelf to conveniently store cordless tools. (3 Echoes Content Studio)

Cordless Drill Holster — Make a convenient storage holster for your cordless drill from a 12-inch length of 3-inch-diameter PVC pipe.

Use a jigsaw to cut a slot in the pipe slightly wider than the tool’s handle, and about 6 inches long. Then screw the pipe to the underside of a shelf.

Now, slide the drill into the slot, leaving the handle hanging below. This is a great way to save shelf space and keep the tool at the ready.

Watch: A Storage Solution for Cordless Tools


Other Products & Links Mentioned

This page contains affiliate links. If you purchase a product from these links, we will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.


Further Reading


Radio Show & Podcast: Send us your question!

If you have a comment, general question about home improvement, or something we’ve featured on Today’s Homeowner, please fill in this form:

These Wide Fence Pickets Make Installation Faster 

These Wide Fence Pickets Make Installation Faster 

Fence made with Alta Forest Products Premium Treated Dog-Ear Fence Pickets
Alta Forest Products’ Premium Treated Dog-Ear Fence Pickets add beauty and privacy to your yard. (Image via The Home Depot)

If you’ve ever installed a privacy fence you know how tedious it can be to attach one picket after another. And it’s even worse with warped or twisted wood.

So the folks at Alta Forest Products have introduced one that addresses those issues and more with their Premium Treated Dog-Ear Fence Pickets.

This page contains affiliate links. If you purchase a product from these links, we will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.


Isolated Alta Forest Products Premium Treated Dog-Ear Fence Pickets on a blue background
These pickets are wider than most, so you can use fewer to build a fence. (Image via The Home Depot)

Easy Installation

Most fence pickets are only three to five inches wide. Alta’s Premium Treated Dog-Ear Fence Picket, however, is a full six inches wide, allowing for faster installation and requiring fewer fasteners and labor. 

It’s also a full 3/4 inch thick which combined with the addition of a wood stabilizing additive makes this product extremely stable and minimizes the amount of warp and twist typically seen in other products. 

These fence pickets ends are sealed to resist splits and checks, for a stronger, longer-lasting fence. 

Alta’s Premium Treated pickets come with a 10-year warranty that protects against rot, decay and wood ingesting insects, including Formosan termites. 


Fence made with Alta Forest Products Premium Treated Dog-Ear Fence Pickets
Because each picket is individually treated and stained, your fence will have a more uniform appearance. (Image via The Home Depot)

Lasting Beauty

Each picket is individually treated and stained — saving you time and money. Plus, your completed fence will have a more uniform appearance. 

They also come with a two-year color fade warranty, so your fence will stay looking new longer. 


More Details

Alta Premium Treated pickets are non-toxic, so there are no special handling or disposal requirements, making this the safe alternative to cedar and pressure-treated wood pickets.

Listen to learn all about this Best New Product!

Find the Alta Forest Products Premium Treated Dog-Ear Fence Picket at The Home Depot.


Further Reading

Ask Danny | Ep. 8: ‘Drywall Shorty’ Gives Some Guidance

Ask Danny | Ep. 8: ‘Drywall Shorty’ Gives Some Guidance

Danny Lipford and Lydia Crowder (Drywall Shorty) chat this week about drywall. (3 Echoes Content Studio/Drywall Shorty)

In this week’s episode of “Ask Danny,” I’m chatting with Lydia Crowder, a.k.a Drywall Shorty, about patching holes, texture and more.


Lydia Crowder, Drywall Shorty
Lydia Crowder, a.k.a. Drywall Shorty, has more than 20 years’ experience installing drywall. (facebook.com/drywallshorty)

About Lydia Crowder

Lydia Crowder is a second-generation drywall contractor with over 20 years in the trade. She owns a contracting business with her husband Ryan, and together they finish over 500,000 square feet of drywall every year. 

Lydia has taught a drywall course at MT Copeland and is a weekly contributor to The Build Show network with Matt Risinger. She was featured on the cover of Women in Trade magazine in Summer/Autumn 2021. 

She has a large social media following, sharing drywall tips and tricks and helping others with their drywall. You can find her on Instagram, Facebook, YouTube and TikTok


Drywall equipment, including joint tape, sanding sponges and scrapers
For any drywall repair job, you need the right tools. (skhoward, Getty Images Signature)

Repairing Ceilings

How do you repair loose drywall tape on ceilings? 

Drywall Shorty: Basically, there are three parts to drywall: the paper face, mud and paper tape. The mud is like glue, so when the adhesion of the mud is missing, the paper won’t stay on. 

Here’s what you need to do:

  • Remove the loose tape
  • Retape everything
  • Feather out the joints 
  • Retexture

Close up of popcorn ceiling texture
With some practice, popcorn ceiling texture can be matched with the canned stuff. (TriggerPhoto, Getty Images Signature)

Drywall Texture

What are your thoughts on the canned texture?

Drywall Shorty: It really depends on how big the patch is. If it’s something small, sometimes you can get away with it. Shake it extremely well and do test patches on a piece of scrap drywall before you spray it on the wall. That will give you a feel of how it’s acting, how much texture it’s leaving, and if your spray pattern is correct. 

For bigger patches, you’ll need to use a commercial tool, like a Hopper. Spray the new texture further back into the existing texture. 

People tend to keep the patch area small because they think if they go bigger it will cause problems. However, it actually catches your eye more if you have a pinpoint spot. Feather it out to get everything to match as best as you can with a sponge.


Finishes

What’s the most common finish you do?

Drywall Shorty: The swirl texture. We spray on thin, watered-down mud, and take pull trowels and do figure eights on the surface for a swirly pattern. 


Drywall knife in bucket of joint compound
All joint compound is not created equally. (Jupiterimages, Photo Images)

Fast-Drying Mud

Do you work with fast-drying drywall mud, and what are your thoughts on it?

Drywall Shorty: Absolutely. Fast-drying drywall mud is good to start out with filling big holes, but when you’re working on texture or the final coat, use a regular box mud

If you have big gaps, like a doorknob through a wall, you need to fill the hole first before you patch it. This is where fast-drying mud comes in handy. It dries very hard and fast. 

Also, something to keep in mind: When you look at the minutes on the bag of fast-drying drywall mud, this is referring to how much working time you have before it sets, it has nothing to do with the hardness of the product. 


Sanding Purple XP drywall in a Georgia home
Dust is inevitable when installing drywall, but there are ways to minimize it. (3 Echoes Content Studio)

Dealing with Dust

What do you think about sanding vacuum cleaning setups?

Drywall Shorty: Nothing is 100 percent dust free, but when you’re working in an environment where you need to keep your dust down, that’s your best bet for keeping your dust to a minimum. 

Be careful that you’re not using too high of a speed and too low of a grit. We like to use Festool PLANEX 2 electric sander. 

You need a good-quality pad on the sanding head. Start with a high grit — it won’t hurt to go over it a couple of extra times. You’re much better off gently sanding than power sanding through it and causing more work for yourself on the backend. 

For dealing with dust during a home remodel, regularly check your HVAC system’s air filter, and change it out if you notice more dust accumulation.


Hole in turquoise-painted drywall, from a doorknob
Holes aren’t as hard to repair as you may think. (©Ursula Page, stock.adobe.com)

Patching Holes

What’s the best way to patch a doorknob hole?

Drywall Shorty: It depends on what you have access to. 

A hot patch, or California patch, is a great fix for this. Most home centers sell small pieces of drywall, about a 2-by-2-inch square, for this. 

However, it won’t be crazy strong, so if it’s a spot that keeps getting hit, you can always screw some backing in there. Take a piece of wood and screw it into the drywall behind the patch so you can have some support. 

You can also use snap-off repair clips. Simply Slip clips onto the edge of the damaged wall, screw through the new patch into each repair clip, then snap the tabs off the front. These are great for areas with no backing because the clips create the backing for you. 


Danny Lipford applying joint compound to drywall in garage
Practice makes perfect, and the garage is a great place to sharpen your drywall skills. (3 Echoes Content Studio)

Drywall Shorty’s Tips

  • Start in your garage. Most garages aren’t as finished as the house, so it’s a great place to start practicing and work on your skills. 
  • Give yourself the freedom to explore: try different tools and techniques
  • If you mess up, it’s not the end of the world. You can always sand over your mistakes.

Further Reading


Ask a Question! (Podcast)

Ask a question and we could answer it on the “Today’s Homeowner Podcast!” We also may use it on our nationally syndicated radio broadcast or on todayshomeowner.com.

Ask Danny | Ep. 8: ‘Drywall Shorty’ Shares Pro Tips

Ask Danny | Ep. 8: ‘Drywall Shorty’ Shares Pro Tips

Danny Lipford and Lydia Crowder (Drywall Shorty) chat this week about drywall. (3 Echoes Content Studio/Drywall Shorty)

In this week’s episode of “Ask Danny,” I’m chatting with Lydia Crowder, a.k.a Drywall Shorty, about patching holes, texture and more.


Lydia Crowder, Drywall Shorty
Lydia Crowder, a.k.a. Drywall Shorty, has more than 20 years’ experience installing drywall. (facebook.com/drywallshorty)

About Lydia Crowder

Lydia Crowder is a second-generation drywall contractor with over 20 years in the trade. She owns a contracting business with her husband Ryan, and together they finish over 500,000 square feet of drywall every year. 

Lydia has taught a drywall course at MT Copeland and is a weekly contributor to The Build Show network with Matt Risinger. She was featured on the cover of Women in Trade magazine in Summer/Autumn 2021. 

She has a large social media following, sharing drywall tips and tricks and helping others with their drywall. You can find her on Instagram, Facebook, YouTube and TikTok


Drywall equipment, including joint tape, sanding sponges and scrapers
For any drywall repair job, you need the right tools. (skhoward, Getty Images Signature)

Repairing Ceilings

How do you repair loose drywall tape on ceilings? 

Drywall Shorty: Basically, there are three parts to drywall: the paper face, mud and paper tape. The mud is like glue, so when the adhesion of the mud is missing, the paper won’t stay on. 

Here’s what you need to do:

  • Remove the loose tape
  • Retape everything
  • Feather out the joints 
  • Retexture

Close up of popcorn ceiling texture
With some practice, popcorn ceiling texture can be matched with the canned stuff. (TriggerPhoto, Getty Images Signature)

Drywall Texture

What are your thoughts on the canned texture?

Drywall Shorty: It really depends on how big the patch is. If it’s something small, sometimes you can get away with it. Shake it extremely well and do test patches on a piece of scrap drywall before you spray it on the wall. That will give you a feel of how it’s acting, how much texture it’s leaving, and if your spray pattern is correct. 

For bigger patches, you’ll need to use a commercial tool, like a Hopper. Spray the new texture further back into the existing texture. 

People tend to keep the patch area small because they think if they go bigger it will cause problems. However, it actually catches your eye more if you have a pinpoint spot. Feather it out to get everything to match as best as you can with a sponge.


Finishes

What’s the most common finish you do?

Drywall Shorty: The swirl texture. We spray on thin, watered-down mud, and take pull trowels and do figure eights on the surface for a swirly pattern. 


Drywall knife in bucket of joint compound
All joint compound is not created equally. (Jupiterimages, Photo Images)

Fast-Drying Mud

Do you work with fast-drying drywall mud, and what are your thoughts on it?

Drywall Shorty: Absolutely. Fast-drying drywall mud is good to start out with filling big holes, but when you’re working on texture or the final coat, use a regular box mud

If you have big gaps, like a doorknob through a wall, you need to fill the hole first before you patch it. This is where fast-drying mud comes in handy. It dries very hard and fast. 

Also, something to keep in mind: When you look at the minutes on the bag of fast-drying drywall mud, this is referring to how much working time you have before it sets, it has nothing to do with the hardness of the product. 


Sanding Purple XP drywall in a Georgia home
Dust is inevitable when installing drywall, but there are ways to minimize it. (3 Echoes Content Studio)

Dealing with Dust

What do you think about sanding vacuum cleaning setups?

Drywall Shorty: Nothing is 100 percent dust free, but when you’re working in an environment where you need to keep your dust down, that’s your best bet for keeping your dust to a minimum. 

Be careful that you’re not using too high of a speed and too low of a grit. We like to use Festool PLANEX 2 electric sander. 

You need a good-quality pad on the sanding head. Start with a high grit — it won’t hurt to go over it a couple of extra times. You’re much better off gently sanding than power sanding through it and causing more work for yourself on the backend. 

For dealing with dust during a home remodel, regularly check your HVAC system’s air filter, and change it out if you notice more dust accumulation.


Hole in turquoise-painted drywall, from a doorknob
Holes aren’t as hard to repair as you may think. (©Ursula Page, stock.adobe.com)

Patching Holes

What’s the best way to patch a doorknob hole?

Drywall Shorty: It depends on what you have access to. 

A hot patch, or California patch, is a great fix for this. Most home centers sell small pieces of drywall, about a 2-by-2-inch square, for this. 

However, it won’t be crazy strong, so if it’s a spot that keeps getting hit, you can always screw some backing in there. Take a piece of wood and screw it into the drywall behind the patch so you can have some support. 

You can also use snap-off repair clips. Simply Slip clips onto the edge of the damaged wall, screw through the new patch into each repair clip, then snap the tabs off the front. These are great for areas with no backing because the clips create the backing for you. 


Danny Lipford applying joint compound to drywall in garage
Practice makes perfect, and the garage is a great place to sharpen your drywall skills. (3 Echoes Content Studio)

Drywall Shorty’s Tips

  • Start in your garage. Most garages aren’t as finished as the house, so it’s a great place to start practicing and work on your skills. 
  • Give yourself the freedom to explore: try different tools and techniques
  • If you mess up, it’s not the end of the world. You can always sand over your mistakes.

Further Reading


Ask a Question! (Podcast)

Ask a question and we could answer it on the “Today’s Homeowner Podcast!” We also may use it on our nationally syndicated radio broadcast or on todayshomeowner.com.

How We Upgraded A Utility Closet By Adding Tons Of Functional Storage

How We Upgraded A Utility Closet By Adding Tons Of Functional Storage

Today we’re talking about the stock market! Just kidding. Exactly as the title suggests, we’re going to show you how we earned some really useful extra storage in our new kitchen by upgrading a formerly VERY PACKED utility closet. It used to basically just have a water heater and an HVAC system in it without much room for anything else, and now there’s, say it with me… so much room for activities. Ok, not for like cartwheels, but significantly more room to store stuff than before. Like maybe 500% more. Really.

Two Toned Ikea Kitchen Cabinets With Stainless Appliances

If you watched our drawer-by-drawer kitchen organization video, you already got a peek at what we have going on in there, but today we’re sharing all the angles, and explaining how we were able to take this closet from “mostly water heater” to “so much everything else.”

Small Utility Closet Organized With Cube Storage And Open Shelving

The Utility Closet Before

We don’t have a lot of “before” photos of this closet because it was absolutely nothing to write home about. In a smaller house like ours, you need a spot for the ugly stuff like the HVAC system and the water heater and this closet was it. The photo below was taken right after we moved in. The HVAC system is to the right of that doorframe (the black tubes lead to it) and although this closet is pretty deep (it goes all the way under the stairs), the water heater completely blocked more than half of the closet that continues to the left of the doorframe.

Before Photo Of Utility Closet With Large Water Heater Tank

This is an example of an extremely random pile of stuff we stored in there on that random patch of floor space between the water heater and the HVAC system in our first few days of living here. I think it was mostly bins of Christmas stuff and miscellaneous items we hadn’t found a spot for yet. Don’t mind the (not real) chihuahua skeleton. Our Halloween stuff now lives in a fabric bin in the laundry closet with the easter eggs and our pumpkin carving tools. And all of our Christmas stuff is in one of the wardrobes in our bedroom. Our house’s organization had nowhere to go but up from the day we took this photo.

Random Storage Thrown On Floor Of Utility Closet

I already mentioned the most frustrating thing about this set-up, which is that the water heater was blocking A LOT of potential storage space under the stairs, rendering it totally inaccessible and unusable. And especially in a smaller house, it’s painful to know that there’s a big empty cavity of perfectly functional storage space THAT YOU CAN’T GET TO.

Before Photo Of Large Electric Water Heater Tank In Utility Closet

So that leads us to the first step in our mini makeover…

Step 1: Update (& Relocate) The Water Heater

In a move that can only be called the MVP of this project, we had that bulky electric water heater replaced with a more energy-efficient tankless model. We used tankless water heaters in our pink beach house and our duplex (see below), so we knew it would take up a lot less space and give us better access to the back of the closet if the switch could be made.

Duplex Owners Closet For Airbnb Rental

And – to our pleasant surprise! – we learned that tankless water heaters are typically installed on the OUTSIDE of homes around here (call us Florida novices). Thar she blows, mounted to the siding right outside of that closet on the back of our house where we put all the ugly stuff because nobody can really see it (it’s also where our pool equipment, gas meter, and generator live – all hidden behind a tall gate).

Tankless gas water heater on exterior of Florida home

So not only had we earned a much more efficient water heater, we suddenly gained access to TONS of extra storage space that runs all the way under the stairs. Which, when you downsize, is basically your love language.

Empty Under Stair Storage In Utility Closet

We did our best to take advantage of the new space, but it was kind of a slapdash approach for a while because we weren’t quite sure what would work best. We hung some wire shelves to wrangle tools and miscellaneous supplies & threw some larger items we wanted to store in that newly accessible area under the stairs, but it was clearly a chaotic vibe (and not the best way to store that stuff, we pretty quickly realized), hence having zero photos of it. This is actually an old video screenshot from a quick spin around the house that Sherry does for insurance purposes every time we leave on a trip because Shavonda says so. Note: the theory is if you’ve recently recorded every nook & cranny of your house, you have that to reference if something happens while you’re gone, and you can show your insurance carrier to make sure they reimburse you for all the items you lost (which you won’t forget, because you have it all on tape).

Screenshot Of Utility Closet With Wire Shelving Filled

We lived with things like that for a while, knowing it wasn’t working flawlessly, but also trying not to rush into some other idea that also wouldn’t work well, and over time as the rest of the kitchen renovation started to come together, we had more clarity on how we wanted to use this bonus space. And let’s just say it didn’t involve shallow wire shelving.

During Photo Of Utility Closet With Wire Shelving Emptied

But before we could bring in some better-looking storage, we had a few things in our way. Quite literally.

Step 2: Reroute The Pipes & Wires

The closet still had various wires, tubes, and pipes that prevented us from putting things where we wanted them. So we paid around $280 to get two pros to come out and move them for us. First our favorite HVAC guys rerouted the thick black tubing and white pipe for the HVAC system as far to the right side as possible (so they no longer arc out so widely into the closet). Note: never compromise your system by changing things with a handyman or DIY if you’re not sure how that system works. We always use a really good HVAC guy when we’re making HVAC changes because a comfortable house temp is key 😉

HVAC Wiring Moved In Utility Closet To Make Room

Later that same day we had our favorite plumber out to re-route the water lines that run out to our tankless water heater, so those water lines are no longer obstructing the back wall at all. We hid them behind the doorway so you can’t even see it from the kitchen anymore! See the blue and red water lines that run above the baseboards in the photo above? Now they sneakily snake behind the doorway (they’re those clear tubes you see in this photo below):

View of inside of closet with clean plumbing pipes running behind door molding

So with everything out of the way, we were finally able to get to the fun part…

Step 3: Customize A Cube Storage Shelf

Hold onto your butts, because this is where it starts to get even more exciting.

After Photo Of Utility Closet With Pretty Cubby Storage And Butcher Counter

We upgraded from that shallow wire wall storage to a basic cube shelf organizer – and we made it look a little less-than-basic by adding 5″ brass furniture legs and topping it with a piece of butcher block counter that we cut to size and sealed with 2 coats of cutting board oil (it always dries a little lighter once it’s soaked in).

Cutting Board Oil next to slab of butcher block counter

Since you can see 4 of the 8 cubes when the closet door is open, we used matching taupe fabric bins to make the things look tidier than they really are. Those bins hold SO MUCH STUFF. Absolutely thrilling.

Sherry Standing In Small Utility Closet With Cube Organizer

We use one of them to store dog food & treats, another one has our steamer & vacuum attachments, one has random things like spray paint & caulk & our a caulk gun. Let’s just say it’s about 5X more pleasurable than trying to balance that stuff in shallow wire shelves (which never could hold our dog food anyway).

Fabric Bins In Cubby Shelf Pulled Opened With Storage

We left the other 4 cubes bin-less and open, and those also hold a smorgasbord of stuff like extra toilet paper, overflow beverages, emergency supplies, and even our Berkey water filter. A few people have asked what happened to it since it’s not out on our counter anymore, and the answer is that during the final stage of our kitchen reno, we finally ran a waterline to our fridge (which created filtered always-cold water on demand – plus ICE!). After over two years without one, having a cold water & ice dispenser has been awesome. The fridge also dispenses hot water for tea so it has basically changed our lives. If this were Cribs on MTV I would welcome you in and talk about my fridge for ten minutes.

White Ikea Kitchen Pantry Cabinets To Ceiling Build Around Refrigerator

Anyway, back to the Berkey. We had it assembled on the counter in the utility closet for a while, but we all tended to just use the fridge when we wanted a drink. But we love our Berkey so we’re keeping it in case we ever need a truly amazing water filter (it can literally make pond water potable!), like a hurricane or other emergency. We have one cube dedicated to hurricane supplies where it sits, which also holds a crank radio, a solar-powered charger, some flashlights, etc.

Cubby Storage Shelf In Utility Closet With Butcher Block Counter

There’s additional space beyond the storage shelf for some random bigger stuff to sit on the floor. And yes, that’s a dehumidifier that you see running because, well, Florida. Since it sits between the intake vent and our HVAC unit, it actually helps dehumidify the whole house.

Under Stair Storage In Utility Closet With Cubby Storage

And as a reminder, this used to be the view from this angle. So yeah… big difference.

Before Photo Of Large Electric Water Heater Tank In Utility Closet

Step 4: Add A Floating Shelf

Honestly, the cube organizer turned out to be more-than-enough storage for us at the moment, but we had some extra butcher block after we made the counter and we thought it would be nice to add a shelf for even more vertical storage.

After Photo Of Utility Closet With Pretty Cubby Storage And Butcher Counter

We created a simple shelf with the help of these metal shelf brackets that we spray-painted Rust-Oleum’s Sunlit Brass to match the feet that we added to the cube storage shelf below. We actually used the same paint on the metal legs on the cube shelf after realizing they were more of an orange brass, and now everything matches.

Detail Of Brass Floating Shelf Bracket With Butcher Block Shelf

The shelf and the countertop do store some functional things, like mugs and extra cups, a pitcher Sherry uses to water her 438 plants, and a handheld vacuum that’s easy for the kids to use. But Sherry threw some decorative things in there too because, well, we now have room for that. This closet really went from feeling like a wasted underutilized space to giving off an almost-pantry or bonus-bar vibe that we appreciate so much.

Butcher Block Counter And Matching Floating Shelf In Utility Closet

So yeah, framed illustrations of your dog and pretty vases can live in a closet too. Live your best life.

Step 5: Cover The Ugly

We still had that extremely utilitarian-looking HVAC unit right next to the area we had just spruced up… but I had an idea.

View Of Utility Closet With HVAC Cover Panel Removed

We built a simple cover panel from a sheet of thin plywood that we trimmed around the edges with 1 x 2″ boards and painted the wall color (SW Pure White).

Wood Cover Panel Hanging In Utility Closet To Hide HVAC Unit

The whole thing hangs from some eye hooks that we screwed into a basic wooden closet rod that we added near the ceiling.

Eye Hook Suspending Wood Panel From Closet Rod In Utility Closet

This means we can easily remove the panel whenever the HVAC unit needs to be serviced.

John Lifting HVAC Cover Panel Off Of Hanging Rod

And, since the intake is on the bottom of the unit, it doesn’t block an inch of airflow, and we can easily change the filter without having to take it down.

The overall effect of adding that panel is surprisingly helpful. It feels MUCH less like a utility closet in here, but still has all the function.

After Photo Of Utility Closet With Pretty Cubby Storage And Butcher Counter

Step 6: Take Advantage of Hidden Walls

Last but not least, we utilized the inside wall (opposite the cube shelf, to the left of the doorway) to wrangle some last remaining items: a dustpan, some cleaning wands, a fly swatter… you know, the really sexy stuff.

Inside Wall Of Utility Closet With Dustpan And Fly Swatter

We also hung this 24″ under-cabinet light vertically along the door molding to give us some extra light in there. It just plugs into a normal outlet (we had that added when we removed the water heater since power had been run to that spot for the water heater) and it offers two brightness settings. Toggle the switch one way for 50% brightness, and toggle it the other way for 100%. This is just 50% below, so it’s PLENTY bright.

Utility Closet Storage With Bright Light On

So that’s the story of how we took this unassuming utility closet that literally only had this much accessible floor space…

Before Photo Of Utility Closet With Large Water Heater Tank

… and gave it quite the glow up.

After Photo Of Utility Closet With Pretty Cubby Storage And Butcher Counter

As a P.S. – I know it looks incredibly shallow in there, but we can both easily stand fully within the closet, walk all the way to the back corner to get the storage items that we have back there, etc.

If it helps, here is Sherry standing inside:

Sherry Standing In Small Utility Closet With Cube Organizer

Since that likely didn’t help because she’s 5’2″, I’ll repeat this picture for you, because you can see that I’m standing fully inside of the closet (see the doorframe in front of me) to remove that HVAC panel. Thrilling, right? I can fully stand in that spot without hitting my head, and both of us have to duck to get to the back of the closet since the ceiling dips down, but that’s par for the course for a closet under the stairs.

John Lifting HVAC Cover Panel Off Of Hanging Rod

One last note about that black upright vacuum, since I know someone will ask. We broke our beloved Shark Navigator that you’ve heard us talk about approximately 42 times (it was our fault, not the vacuums’) and it was no longer sold at that moment we broke it, so we caved and got a Shark ION P50 – but don’t fall for it. The Shark Navigator is forever and always our favorite cordless vac (so glad it’s back and available again! Sherry wishes we had waited). I will admit that we rarely use a “real vacuum” now that Eufy has come into our lives, except mainly for doing the stairs (which we sometimes do with our handheld vacuum because we’re cool like that).

To read all about our kitchen renovation, this post has you covered (including the cost). And if you’d like to see how our entire kitchen is organized, we throw open all the doors & drawers right here in this post.

*This post contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

Save Energy, Lower Utility Bills With a Geothermal Heat Pump

Save Energy, Lower Utility Bills With a Geothermal Heat Pump

Homeowners in the U.S. average $1,900 a year on utility bills, with over 20 percent going to heating and cooling costs. So, it only makes sense to have the most energy efficient HVAC system for your home — a geothermal heat pump.


Heat pump by brick home
Geothermal heat pumps don’t burn fossil fuels, so they’re eco-friendly. (jpproductions, Getty Images)

What are Geothermal Heat Pumps?

Both the Deptartment of Energy and the EPA endorse geothermal heat pumps. Also known as ground source heat pumps, they’re among the most energy efficient and eco-friendly ways to heat and cool your home.

Geothermal systems are 50-70 percent more efficient for heating than traditional furnaces. They’re also 20-40 percent more efficient for cooling than standard air conditioners.

Unlike systems that burn fossil fuels – such as gas, fuel oil, coal, or wood – geothermal heat pumps don’t produce carbon dioxide greenhouse gas emissions.

About one million geothermal heating/cooling systems have been installed in the U.S. since 1980.


Illustrated diagram of a geothermal heat pump, showing underground pipes that supply ground-source heat
A series of underground pipes absorb heat from the ground in the winter to warm your home. (DepositPhotos)

How Does a Geothermal Heat Pump Work?

While a standard heat pump uses the temperature of outside air for heating and cooling, a geothermal heat pump draws on the more constant temperatures found underground.

A series of underground pipes absorb heat from the ground in the winter to warm your home.

In the summer, the process is reversed, with heat removed from your home and transferred back into the ground.

The network of buried polyethylene pipes used to exchange heat operate as either a closed or open loop.

In a closed loop system, the heat pump circulates a mixture of antifreeze and water through the pipes and back again.

An open loop, on the other hand, draws water from a well or pond, then returns it to the ground after use.

Pipes for a closed loop geothermal system can either be buried horizontally 4- 7 feet deep or vertically 150-400 feet underground.

Once the heat has been extracted from the fluid, it’s transferred to an air handler and ductwork to your home similar to other forced air HVAC systems.

A geothermal heat pump can also efficiently heat your home’s water. Waste heat from the compressor can be used to produce hot water at very little expense.


House with stacks of money as background
Through the High-Efficiency Electric Home Rebate Program, you could be eligible for $8,000 to cover installation costs. (Andy Dean Photography)

Is a Geothermal Heat Pump Worth It?

Geothermal heat pumps last 25 years on average while underground pipe loops can operate for over 50 years.

Over the life of the system, geothermal heat pumps cost 25 percent to 50 percent less than a traditional system. Homeowners can recoup the added installation expense in as little as five to seven years.

Find out how much you can save on your home’s heating and cooling with the Bosch Geothermal Savings Calculator.

Geothermal systems are also eligible for a federal energy efficiency tax credit of 30 percent of the cost, up to $2,000, of installing the system. This tax credit is available through the end of 2032.

Both principal residences and second homes are eligible for the federal tax credit, and you may also qualify for additional state and local tax incentives or rebates.

Beyond the tax incentive, you also could be eligible for up to $1,750 for a heat pump water heater and $8,000 for a heat pump for space heating and cooling through the High-Efficiency Electric Home Rebate Program. 

More information is available at Bosch Thermotechnology.


Further Information