Building an outdoor TV cabinet isn’t hard at all. And the result is more than worth the effort. Best of all, you’ll be able to watch the game — or anything else — while dining or lounging on your deck or patio.
Half-inch treated plywood
Coated deck screws
TV mount and hardware
Peel-and-stick roofing starter strip
How to Build an Outdoor TV Cabinet
Before you attempt any woodworking project, always wear safety glasses. In addition, take necessary precautions to ensure a hazard-free project area.
1. Install the back. Start with a piece of half-inch pressure-treated plywood. This board attaches to the fence or wall on the back side and it’s where you’ll install the TV mount on the front side.
This plywood also forms the back of the cabinet’s ‘box.’ The piece’s dimensions are determined by the size of the TV. Just allow a few inches of extra space on each side.
2. Install the sides. On either side of the plywood, attach pressure-treated 2-by-6s by driving coated deck screws at an angle into the fence. These 2-by-6s serve as the four sides of the outdoor TV cabinet. However, a deeper TV may require wider material.
3. Screw in the TV mount. Install the TV mount on the plywood, as directed on the mount’s package. Allow space for the TV to hang on the rails.
4. Build the cabinet doors. We’re making cabinet doors from pressure-treated fence boards. This will mimic the pattern of the fence behind the cabinet. The boards overlap each other by about an inch. We’re using waterproof wood glue and galvanized nails to secure everything together.
5. Add reinforcement. On the back of each door, we attach a horizontal piece at the top and bottom, with a diagonal piece running between to add strength.
6. Install hinges. Attach the doors to the cabinet using ordinary gate hinges.
7. Add water resistance. To keep out the rain, we apply peel-and-stick roofing starter strip to the top of the cabinet. Make sure it overlaps the front edge. Then we cover that edge with a strip of the fence material to create a shed-style roof for the cabinet with the scraps from our fence boards. Again, we use 1-inch overlap patterns.
8. Stain it. Once we coat the cabinet with stain to protect it, we’re ready to mount this outdoor TV cabinet and begin enjoying it!
These chairs made from RumbleStone blocks make a great addition to any patio, particularly those made of pavers.
To create your own paver patio chair, first take small, medium, and large RumbleStone blocks and lay them out in a U shape. These are 24 1/2 inches deep, 35 inches wide.
Next, apply polyurethane construction adhesive before the next row of stones are applied on top of the other stones.
Be sure that the pattern of the stones varies for each new row. This way, no continuous seams will be seen from the bottom to the top of the chair. Also, this makes the chair stronger and visually appealing.
Use trapezoid blocks to fill in the back of the chair once it reaches 24 inches high. Apply construction adhesive to the bottoms and the sides of these blocks to form the back of your chair.
Inside the legs of the chair, glue four 45-millimeter-large blocks vertically to support the seat of the chair. For the seat, use four 2×4 wood planks and a couple of 2×2 pleats.
The result will give you complimentary paver chairs to go along with your paver patio!
Patio seating comes in many materials and price ranges — which can be good and bad.
For instance, ready-to-assemble outdoor furniture may be functional, but it also looks off-the-rack. And like everybody else’s outdoor furniture.
Whether you entertain a lot or just want a backyard paradise to personally enjoy, creating a set of paver chairs is a surefire way to do that.
Pavestone RumbleStone blocks, made of durable concrete, are engineered to mimic the appearance of weathered cut stone. They have a natural look and feel and give any outdoor living space texture and depth.
Best of all, they resist decaying and fading and don’t attract pests.
Patio seating made from these rustic building blocks is sure to be a crowd-pleaser and a conversation piece.
Follow this guide as inspiration to create your own paver chairs.
What You’ll Need
How to Build Paver Chairs
1. Create a ‘U.’ Lay small, medium and large RumbleStone blocks in a U shape. Choose the size that works for you and cut any of the blocks as needed with a circular saw. (Just wear protective eyewear before you do.) This chair’s U shape is 24 1/2 inches deep and 35 inches wide.
2. Bond the blocks together. Apply construction adhesive on top of each row of stones before you add the next row of stones.
3. Mix it up. Vary the pattern of stones for each new row. This way, no continuous seams will be seen from the bottom to the top of the chair. Also, this makes the chair stronger and more visually appealing.
4.Fill it in. Use trapezoid blocks to fill in the back of the chair once it reaches 24 inches high. Apply construction adhesive to the bottoms and the sides of these blocks to form the back of your chair.
5.Add the seat. Patio seating is nothing without the seat! So, inside the legs of the chair, glue four 45-millimeter-large blocks vertically to support the seat of the chair. Then, to create the seat, secure four 2-by-4 wood planks to a couple of 2-by-2 cleats with a power drill and deck screws.
Make them Comfortable
These chairs add instant elegance to your outdoor living space, especially if you have a paver patio. Now there’s just one thing left to do: add cushions!
You can add a back cushion and leave the wooden seat as is, or you can add a matching seat cushion to soften the chair’s appearance and enhance your comfort.
Need shade? Add a matching patio umbrella or shade sail overhead to tie the look together, so your hardscape elements (the paver patio and paver chairs) match, and your cloth elements (the cushions and shade) complement each other, too!
The result is sure to rival your neighbors’ patio seating, and will make your outdoor living space the best-looking one on the block.
If your outdoor space needs a countertop, look no further than concrete mix to make one that’s stylish and will stand the test of time.
Concrete is durable and easy to clean, which makes it the perfect building material for a countertop, especially one that you will use outdoors.
So, whether you need a prep station for grilling or an outdoor table for eating, concrete is a great material.
Steps to Make the Countertop
Shape the forms. A sheet of melamine is perfect for the base because of its smooth surface. Screw strips of vinyl molding to the melamine for the edges, and then seal the seams with caulk. Also, coat the entire piece with lubricant so the concrete will release easily.
Pour the concrete. Now for the fun part. Pour the concrete mix into the mold — the steel reinforcement will need to be lifted up from the bottom of the mold before smoothing the top off-level with the top of the mold. Tap around the edges with a rubber mallet or hammer to release air bubbles.
Let this dry for a few days and then you have a ready-to-install concrete countertop!
You can easily update your kitchen cabinets by painting them. However, a good paint job depends on a great prep job. Prepare the surface properly so the paint will adhere and not peel or chip over time.
While you can paint cabinets with a brush, a sprayer is faster and leaves a smoother surface.
Preparing the Surface
Before you can start painting the kitchen cabinets, you need to prepare the surface. Prepping usually is the longest part of the job, and it’s the most important part to ensure the finishing coats properly cover the cabinets.
1. Remove doors and drawers: Take the doors and hardware off the cabinet boxes and remove drawers and hardware from the cabinets. You will paint the doors and drawers separately.
2. Place the doors on sawhorses. Spreading the doors on two-by-fours stretched between sawhorses will allow you to prep and paint without moving the doors.
3.Clean the Cabinets: Clean all surfaces thoroughly with a household cleaner to remove any grease or grime.
4. Sand the Cabinets: Lightly sand all the surfaces. If the old finish is in good condition, you don’t have to sand it down to bare wood, just until it’s smooth and free of gloss.
A pad sander with 220-grit paper will make quick work of the flat areas and a sanding sponge is ideal for curved edges and recesses. The goal here is to rough up the surface enough to accept the primer.
If there is any greasy residue left after sanding, mineral spirits will remove it.
5. Remove the dust: Vacuum off any sanding dust, and then wipe the cabinets down with a clean, damp cloth.
Priming and Painting the Kitchen Cabinets
1. Prime the cabinets: Apply an oil-based, stain-blocking primer to the cabinets. Oil-based primers adhere and block stains better than latex primers.
We’re using a high-volume, low-pressure spray gun to apply both the primer and paint. These sprayers are inexpensive and user-friendly but the operator should be protected by a respirator.
When you spray paint, it’s important to keep the spray tip a consistent distance from the surface and make slow passes back and forth. Each pass should begin and end beyond the edge of the door so there’s no buildup of paint on the edges.
We’re using the same sprayer on the cabinet boxes inside since the floors are covered and the room is sealed.
In this case, we’re painting the inside of the cabinets to avoid overspray marks or the need to mask each opening of the cabinets.
2. Cover imperfections. After the primer dries, fill any holes or dents with a two-part auto body filler. After the filler has hardened, sand it smooth with the surface. You also may need to putty nail holes or caulk cracks and seams.
3. Paint the cabinets: Use a high-quality woodwork enamel paint on your kitchen cabinets. You can use oil or latex paints, though they each have their advantages and disadvantages:
Oil-based paint has a smoother surface and dries harder than latex; but it requires a solvent like mineral spirits for clean-up, has a strong odor, and slowly dries.
Latex paint cleans up easily with water, comes in low and no VOC (volatile organic compounds) formulas, and dries quickly; but it shows brush marks more, is softer, and tends to imprint, allowing items placed on shelves to stick unless shelf paper is applied.
I prefer a medium gloss (such as semigloss or eggshell) paint for kitchen cabinets, though high gloss holds up well. Avoid using flat paint on kitchen cabinets, since it doesn’t clean as well.
Apply the paint, sanding lightly between coats. Spraying the doors horizontally reduces the risk of drips, which can mar the finish.
Allow the two coats of finish paint to dry thoroughly before handling the doors and replacing the hardware.
If you’re changing hardware, consider buying new hinges with the same footprint as the old ones. This will simplify installation and hide any indentations left by the old hinges.