Inspired by currently trending raffia-covered furniture, I’m showing you how to build your own TV console table covered in wallpaper for $150!
**I partnered with Titebond for this project which makes me really excited because…I used their original wood glue and ONLY their wood glue to hold my entire table together! What?!**
The goal for my house was a tall and wide table without any visible supports that broke up the clean lines. The overall dimensions of my finished table are 70″ wide and 35″ tall. So keep that in mind with the materials and cut lists below!
What to Buy
What to Cut
1x2s:
(4) @ 32″
(7) @ 14-1/2″
(2) @ 70″
3/4″ plywood:
(4) 32″ long x 16″ wide
(2) 70″ long x 16″ wide
Building the Console Table Boxes
Essentially we are creating 3 separate boxes. 2 will be the legs and 1 will be the tabletop.
Start with the 2 smaller boxes (legs) to get your feet wet. Lay a 32″ piece of plywood down and add your Titebond wood glue along the top side of all 4 edges. Then lay a 1×2 on its side on top of the glue, making sure it’s flush with the edge of the plywood.
The 32″ pieces of 1×2 will go from edge to edge of the plywood while the 14.5″ pieces should fit snuggly between.
Once you have the 1x2s lined up on the edges just so, run a bead of wood glue on the top of them.
Gently set another 32″ piece of plywood on top. Now your box leg is complete!
Repeat for the other leg, using a few clamps if necessary to create super tight joints!
You’ll follow the same steps to create the tabletop, only you’ll add an additional 14.5″ 1×2 support somewhere in the middle. This will help keep the long 1x2s from sinking in and add overall stability to the table.
Waiting is the Hardest Part
If you’ve ever tried to pry wood apart that’s been glued with Titebond, even for a few minutes, you know it’s basically impossible to do well.
And that’s why you don’t need any nails or screws to hold your table together. Wood glue, when fully dried and cured, is actually stronger than fasteners! So crazy but oh so true!
Let your 3 boxes dry and set up for at least 30 minutes before moving on to the next step.
Adding Legs to the Table Top
Assuming your floor is level, set your leg boxes upright, approximately 70″ apart. Apply ample amounts of wood glue to the tippy top of your legs and gently set the tabletop in place. Adjust the top so it’s flush with the outside of your leg on one side before adjusting the other leg.
For a table this large, it would be helpful to have a friend or spouse hold the good side in place while you manipulate the other side. But with a few back-and-forths, you can handle it yourself too!
I used a speed square to make sure the legs were at 90-degree angles. Not a bad tool to have in your arsenal if you don’t have one already!
When you’re satisfied with your leg situation, let it sit for about 30 minutes before you start covering everything in wallpaper!
Adhering Wallpaper to the Console Table
I love the texture of a raffia or light-colored wood table. And after a friend shared an inexpensive peel-and-stick wallpaper she used that looked like faux grasscloth, I knew I could use that to create the texture I wanted for this piece of furniture.
I also wanted the table to look like one slab of wood. To create that effect with the wallpaper, I started at the bottom of one leg, took it up and over the top, and then down the other leg without any cuts or seams. I also lined it up with the back edge of the table so it could fold and go down the front edge without any seams.
Hopefully, the video better illustrates how I handled the corners, so watch it above! I had the paper that came from the tabletop under the paper from the legs. Then I scored on the paper itself the 45-degree angle from the inside corner to the outside corner of the wood structure. I cut any excess paper from the top and then stuck it down. Next, I cut the layer of paper coming from the legs along the line I just scored. So when everything was laid flat and stuck down good, it looks like my legs and tabletop were mitered together.
Originally I planned to carefully trim the excess at the end of the front edge, but since it folded so nicely without any bubbling, I folded the inch or so excess and stuck it to the inside of the table.
And that got covered up next with another run of wallpaper. I bought enough wallpaper (2 rolls) to cover the inside of the legs and the underside of the tabletop. And since I was less concerned on the underside about seeing seams, I covered them individually and ended up not covering the underside of the tabletop itself. You really can’t see it during everyday use and it saved me $27 by not opening the second roll.🤷♀️
Oh and for the legs, the inside wallpaper was flush with the front edge so the excess was just folded over and stuck onto the back of the legs. Yes, it looks unfinished from the backside. BUT WHO CARES?!
The only place I needed to trim wallpaper was at the base of the legs. I propped up one leg at a time with a scrap piece of 1×2 so I could trim it as precisely as possible. I didn’t want any sliver of wood showing and giving away my table’s secrets!
About an hour or so after completing the table, there was still a little wobble to it if you shifted it from side to side. But after leaving it alone overnight, the wiggle was gone and this table was sturdy, stable and ready to move to its new home!
I ordered our poufs from Home Depot* to serve as decoration AND additional seating. They are like sophisticated beanbag chairs and the kids have already pulled them out to sit and roll around several times!
The wallpaper behind the TV and console was recently hung to create an accent wall. I like it by itself but I’m still trying to figure out if I like the room as a whole with the wallpaper in it.🤔
But we do love the sleekness of our Frame TV*! It was a splurge we treated ourselves to when our previous house sold for way over the asking price. Now I’m thinking I might brush some gold paint on the frame to match other gold frames in the room. The projects and ideas never stop around here! Ha!
Making your house look great at the first glance doesn’t have to be a costly investment. These simple and affordable curb appeal ideas can update your home while boosting its appeal to visitors and potential buyers.
This house number wall planter adds natural texture to a brick exterior. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
1. Dress Up Your House Number
First on our list of curb appeal ideas is stylishly displaying your house number. Not only does it add curb appeal but it also clearly shows your house number for first responders and ensures packages get delivered to the right home.
This house number wall planter project is a two-for-one – you get a wall planter that also prominently displays your house number. Plus, it can be built in less than half a day.
First, measure and cut the wood for your house number wall planter. For this project, we used cedar because of its scent, but you can use any type of wood.
Here are the cuts you’ll need:
Three 1x6s at 24 inches
Two 1x4s at 3.5 inches
One 1×4 at 12 inches
One 1×4 at 13.5 inches
Pocket holes prevent wood screws from penetrating the panel’s front side. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
Step 2
Choose whether you want the rough side or the smooth side of your cedar facing out, then drill pocket holes on the backs of two of your 1×6 boards.
To assemble the planter box, use the 12-inch piece for the bottom, the 13.5-inch piece for the front and the two 3.5-inch pieces as the sides. Apply wood glue and then nail them together.
A scrap piece of wood is the perfect height to hold up the planter box place while you attach it to the panel. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
Step 6
Use a scrap piece of wood to hold the planter box three-quarters of an inch from the bottom of the panel. Then, attach the planter box to the panel using wood screws from behind. Sand the house number planter box. If you want a glossy look, apply a wood sealer.
Hang the wall planter up on your house before adding the dirt and plants.
Your mailbox says a lot about your home, and you. To maintain curb appeal, keep it painted well or purchase a new one that meets United States Postal Service guidelines.
2. Replace Your Mailbox
While we’re on the subject of house numbers, give some attention to your mailbox!
Mailboxes serve a dual purpose: they collect your mail, but they also send a message about the homeowner’s attentiveness to their dwelling.
A tattered old mailbox suggests a lack of care. Don’t risk sending the wrong message: install a sparkling new mailbox.
From traditional to polished-nickel options, choose from dozens of styles and sizes. Consider whether you’ll need to enlist help for installation: a wall-mounted mailbox will only require some screws and a screwdriver, but roadside mailboxes that sit on posts might require an expert’s help.
If you have to dig a post hole for your new mailbox, call 811 before you dig to ensure that you stay clear of any utility lines.
And before you do anything, always review the US Postal Service’s mailbox requirements.
Yes, the USPS has requirements, and it enforces those requirements! For instance, roadside mailboxes must be at least 6 inches back from the curb.
If you’re installing a door slot, USPS requires that the opening be at least 1.5 by 7 inches.Find all the specifics atusps.com.
A front porch isn’t complete without comfortable chairs and potted plants.(DepositPhotos)
3. Spruce Up the Front Porch
Next on our list of curb appeal ideas is spruing up the front porch.
Here’s an easy formula to improve your front porch’s appearance: furniture, plants and wreaths.
Furniture
Front porch furniture — like gliding, lounging or rocking chairs — welcomes guests and invites them to sit, take a load off and enjoy some conversation.
You can find nice, inexpensive furniture at a thrift store to add character. Shop for something that looks good but doesn’t require refinishing.
Plants
Plants offer a nice break from your home’s hard features (such as windows, doors, roofing and siding). To add texture and soften your home’s exterior appearance, purchase plants at the home and garden center and place them in pots made for outdoor use.
Just get one or two planters — most hardware stores or gardening shops sell inexpensive faux terracotta ones — to arrange near your front entrance. Place two planters on either side of your front door or cascade multiple down the front steps.
Here’s a suggestion for a starter plant: hardy and beautiful hibiscus! These slow growers provide abundant greenery with massive (up to 10-inch) blooms.
When the weather turns colder, move the pots indoors to enjoy them through the winter months.
When you’re picking out your plants, one simple phrase should be the key to your planter or window box: “fillers, spillers and thrillers.”
Fillers: Leafy greens will fill the space and complete the look
Spillers: Flowers like Creeping Jenny flow over the container’s sides
Thrillers: These plants offer the “wow” factor. Pops of color will draw the visitor’s eye
To fully capture the senses, add some aromatics to emit a gentle fragrance as guests enter your home. Keep in mind that your climate will also play a role in what you should plant.
Check the online version of the Farmers’ Almanac to learn what will and won’t grow well in your area.
Wreaths
Who says door wreaths are just for winter holidays? Make any door look great with a year-round wreath. Embellish the wreath based on the current season and add or remove accessories — such as a large initial of your family’s last name — as needed.
Scan the web, shop around and purchase these items in advance and you can move them into position and dress your front porch in less than an hour!
You can paint a door on its hinges, but doors with lots of imperfections need special treatment.
4. Paint the Front Door
A new paint color is the most budget-friendly of this list of curb appeal ideas. Don’t underestimate the power of a fresh coat of paint. The average gallon of paint costs between $15 and $30 — a reasonable investment that packs a punch when it comes to improving the look of a home.
Options for front door colors are as endless as your imagination. However, choose one that complements the color scheme of your home’s exterior. For a monochromatic color scheme, choose darker and lighter shades within the same color. To add eye-catching contrast, pick a door color that’s on the opposite end of the color wheel as your home’s main color.
Playful pops of colors are very on trend when it comes to door updates. But classic colors and stains never go out of style. A simple coat of faux mahogany finish can give instant curb appeal and won’t cost you a boatload.
Tips
Get the most mileage out of your paint job with these tips:
1. Remove any hardware. This includes knockers, kick plates and door handles. By taking these off, you avoid getting paint on your hardware, and you can ensure that you cover the whole door with paint.
2. Clean it. Soap and water should do the job, but if there’s years’ worth of build up, use a pressure washer to power wash the grim away.
3. Lay it flat. Taking the door off its hinges is an extra step that most likely means a two-person job, but removing the door makes it easier to apply the paint in even coats.
4. Sand it. By sanding your door before you paint, you can remove dust, debris, and old paint layers. Sanding can also help your paint stick better, giving you a cleaner, crisper fresh coat.
5. Change the locks. Now is a great time to invest in some new home security. Replace your old deadbolt and handle with a brand new set and consider installing smart locks for keyless entry.
Installing a new door handle is a small change that can make a big difference. (Jason Finn, Getty Images)
5. Add New Hardware
Number five on our list of curb appeal ideas is upgrading your front door’s hardware.
It’s a simple, cost-effective and you can choose from a variety of colors and metal types, like silver, gold, satin nickel, copper, and oiled bronze.
Plus, hardware comes in many shapes and sizes, so before heading to the home center, consider the look and function you want — for instance, do you want knobs or levers? Do you want to turn, pull or push the handle to open the door?
With all of these options, you can easily find hardware to match your personal style and enhance your home’s aesthetic on a budget.
Just consider how the new hardware will look compared with your interior doors’ hardware. You may not want, say, an oiled bronze lever on the front door if brass knobs are on two close-by interior doors.
Or you may want to replace all your interior knobs with levers to match the front door for a consistent look throughout the home. Or at least spray the existing knobs with an oiled bronze finish to match.
Either way, it’s your home, and it’s your decision.
Lawn borders contain your mulch and define flowerbeds and pathways, giving your landscaping a finished look.
It doesn’t cost much to install concrete borders — expect to pay an estimated $2 per linear foot for materials. Out of all these curb appeal ideas, this is the most hands on, do-it-yourself project, so keep in mind the time and labor it will take.
Expect to dig a trench, build and install wood forms, pour in some gravel and then top that with concrete mix. Add just a few extra steps if you want to color the concrete mix, and give this project about three days to cure.
In a week, your flower beds will look better than ever and your front yard will have a sense of order to it — all thanks to a simple border!
Want to add ambiance to your yard? Add landscape lighting. (Alberto Sava via Canva)
7. Install Exterior Lighting
While we’re on the subject of lawns, here’s another home curb appeal idea: install exterior lighting.
Adding a few lights to your front yard allows you to literally shine a spotlight on your home’s best features.
Landscape lightsare easy to install, and solar varieties are self-sufficient, so they won’t put a strain on your energy bill.
First, light walkways with garden lights or bollard lights, then move on to accent lighting. Use spotlights or up/down lights to highlight features like a large tree or a flag pole.
Want to add some ambiance to your patio? Hang some string lights!
Before you install landscape lighting, test the layout and determine the focal point for the brightest light. Simply tape flashlights to stakes and position them around the yard at night to see how halogen or incandescent landscape lights will look.
You can also place luminaries – composed of a white bag with sand and a candle inside – around your yard at night to mimic the look of solar-powered landscape lighting.
Concrete garden spheres add curb appeal or enhance your backyard with whimsical hardscaping. Think of them as a modern interpretation of the classic garden gnome!
Nestle these spheres between plants or use them to accent porch steps or the patio. No matter where you put them, they’ll make a great conversation piece.
Here’s how to make your own.
Plastic planters hold the forms in place while the concrete cures. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
You’ll need two hollow half foam balls for each garden sphere you want to create. I’m making two spheres at a time, so I’ve got four half foam balls.
First, use a hot knife foam cutter to make a 2- or 3-inch-diameter hole in the tops of two half foam balls. (These will serve as the spheres’ tops, in which you’ll pour the concrete — but we’ll get to that later.)
Then, set the other two half foam balls in planters or containers filled with dirt to hold them steady. (These will serve as the spheres’ bottoms.) Stick toothpicks into the rims of each bottom half foam ball and apply caulk all along the rims. The toothpicks keep the top foam ball from shifting, while the caulk creates a seal so no concrete mix seeps out.
Place the other two half foam balls on top of the bottom half balls, ensuring the toothpicks connect the bottom halves with their tops, all the way around. Wait for the caulk to dry. Most silicone caulk takes 24 hours to dry, but some fast-drying caulks only take one to three hours.
Once you remove all the foam, sand the entire sphere with 120- or 150-grit sandpaper for a smooth finish.
Sealing concrete is always a good idea — it will keep the garden spheres from getting moldy, and it will add a slight sheen. Use Quikrete Acrylic Cure and Seal once the concrete has hardened and the surface sheen has disappeared.
Now, all that’s left to do is decide where you want to show them off in your garden!
A sofa arm tray keeps everything you need in the living room within close reach.
Let’s face it, your couch can easily swallow everyday items if you lack table space to keep them stable and in view. Remotes mysteriously vanish moments after you set them down, and phones slip between cushion gaps.
From reading glasses to snacks, and everything in between, a sofa arm tray can keep these items in plain sight and easily accessible. Plus, it’s the perfect spot to set down a drink so you don’t have your hands full while lounging in the living room.
This is especially useful if you use your hands a lot while talking — it eliminates any chance for your drink to spill during a spirited conversation!
You can easily build this small sofa arm tray in less than a day. And, depending on how long it takes the finish to dry, you can enjoy its convenience and receive compliments from friends in no time!
Materials
Determine the Size
First, you’ll need to measure the width of the armrest where you’ll use the sofa arm tray.
Then, measure the distance from the top of the armrest to the cushion.
Cut Wood Pieces
From a piece of 1-by-8 board, cut one piece 1 1/2 inches wider than the armrest and one piece the same length as the distance to the cushion.
Then, cut a third piece 2 1/2 to 3 inches longer than the cushion height. This piece will go on the outside.
Assemble Sofa Arm Tray
You’ll need some 3-inch trim screws, a countersink drill bit, and some wood glue for assembly. Glue the pieces together with Titebond Original Wood Glue to quickly bond them together. This makes the tray sturdier and drilling the screws easier.
Use the countersink bit to drill a pair of pilot holes in each location before you drive in screws to secure the joint.
Trim screws have a tiny head, so once they’re in place, they’re nearly invisible.
Repeat this process with the other leg.
Add the Final Touches
After you’ve assembled the sofa arm tray, sand the edges for a smooth finish.
Next, apply a coat of wood stain with a cotton cheesecloth.
Once the wood stain is dry, brush on a coat of clear polyurethane sealer. A water-based polyurethane sealer should dry in about two hours, whereas an oil-based one will take at least eight hours.
After your sofa arm tray is dry, unwind in your living room with your essentials in sight!
Cornhole, a game that’s been around for centuries, is a popular pastime for tailgate entertainment or backyard fun. You just need a cornhole board and some bags — and a free afternoon with family or friends!
As the story goes, Matthias Kuepermann found a group of boys throwing stones into groundhog holes for fun. Worried for their safety, he crafted the cornhole board, replacing groundhog holes with wooden boxes with round holes and stones with bags filled with dried corn.
Because of its simplicity, the game hasn’t evolved much. These days, the corn-filled bags are sometimes replaced with plastic and resin beads. But some die-hard cornhole enthusiasts insist on using real corn kernels.
Players in the United States even compete at state and national levels. And now, there are efforts to make the cornhole game an Olympic sport.
You can build a cornhole board for your backyard. The process is simple, but it might require a few specialty tools if you don’t already have them on hand!
Whether you’re passing time in the backyard or competing for bragging rights, the cornhole game is a fun activity for all ages.
Use a carpenter square to get accurate angles for your cornhole game’s leg pieces.
Cut the Cornhole Board’s Wood Pieces
Using a carpenter or speed square, mark 25 degrees and cut along that angle. Then mark a straight line 12-and-1/4 inches from the angle’s long side. Repeat this three more times to create your boards’ legs.
For the frames, you’ll need four straight cuts at 21 inches and four straight cuts at 48 inches.
The 45-degree cuts on the leg pieces will make them easier to fold
Now back to your leg pieces. You need to cut them on the square side to make them easier to fold and unfold. Mark 1 inch in from each side and 1 inch down on each side. Connect those marks with a straight edge to draw a 45-degree angle on each corner. Cut the two triangles on each leg.
Lay your cornhole game frame on a waist-high table for easy drilling.
Assemble the Frame
To mark the hole for the legs to attach to your frame, measure 1 and 3/4 inches from one side and 1 and 3/4 inches from the short end. Drill all the way through with a 3/8-inch drill bit. Then set aside.
Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue will keep your frame in place and add some waterproofing to your cornhole game.
To lay out your frames, lay two 48-inch pieces parallel to one another and set the 21-inch pieces at the ends, between them. Apply a bead of wood glue rated for exterior use, like Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue, and attach the pieces together with 3-inch screws.
Apply more wood glue around the top of your new frame, and set the 2-by-4 sheet of plywood in place. Attach it with 1-and-1/2-inch screws through the plywood into the frame below.
To create the hole for the bean bags, mark 9 inches from one end, then measure and mark the center of the board near that 9-inch mark.
Using a 6-inch hole saw, cut a hole with your mark at the center. A hole saw this large can be a little tricky, so take your time!
Flip the board over to attach the legs.
Folding legs will save storage space.
Attach the Legs
On the end of your board with the hole, set your legs in either corner with the longer part of the angle on top. Clamp the leg half an inch from the end and use the existing hole in the leg to drill a 3/8-inch hole through the frame. Then sand the ends of the legs to round the cut angles.
Next, slide a carriage bolt through the hole from the outside, then one washer, a wood leg, another washer and finally the nut. Hand tighten.
Repeat as necessary until both of your cornhole boards are assembled!
Stain your cornhole game for a finished look or customize it by painting it with your team colors.
Start with 150- or 180-grit sandpaper. Once you’ve sanded all of the surfaces, step it up to a 220- or 300-grit sandpaper to create that smooth, slick surface that’s synonymous with cornhole boards!
Staining: In long, even strokes rub your wood stain with the grain of the wood. Follow with a clean rag to wipe up the excess stain. Once it has dried for a few hours, start applying a clear topcoat, like spar varnish, that is safe for outdoor use.
Let the coat completely dry before sanding with 220-grit sandpaper, wiping clean and applying another clear coat. Repeat for a third time.
Painting: If you’re choosing to paint your boards, select an exterior semi-gloss paint and make sure your design covers all the wood on the top so the surface will be appropriately slick. Several coats might be required.
Once your topcoat or paint is dry, you’re ready to start keeping score!
To get your backyard ready for more summer fun, add some hanging string lights. Use planters or shepherd’s hooks to keep the good times going past sundown.
