Eliminate Paint Drip With This Lid Hack

Eliminate Paint Drip With This Lid Hack

Over the years, I’ve shared more than 500 Simple Solutions — many of them have to do with painting specifically painting neatly

And over time, many Today’s Homeowner fans have shared their own solutions on how to make painting easier.

This tip from John from Clancy, Montana, will help you paint neatly from a can using a paintbrush. 

The challenge when dipping a paintbrush in a can is how to keep the paint from dripping around the rim. Not only do you waste paint, but you also make a mess on the outside of the paint can and the surface underneath it. 

To prevent any paint from dripping down the side of the can, create a built-in paint scraper in the center of the can. Here’s how to do it:

Snippers cutting a paint can lid in half
A sharp pair of snips will easily cut through a paint can lid. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
  • Cut the lid in half using a pair of snips. 
Paint can with lid cut in half to prevent paint drip from a brush.
The half lid acts as a scraper, so the paint stays inside the can instead of dripping down the side. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
  • Tap the half lid onto the paint can to secure it. 

When you dip your paintbrush in there, you can take that excess paint and just strike it off against the edge of the half lid.

Now, you can very neatly apply the paint without any drips, runs or errors.

If you don’t use the whole can, you can preserve the leftover with a separate paint bucket and save the half lid for future painting projects.  

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Further Reading

Wave for Water With Kohler’s Touchless Faucet

Wave for Water With Kohler’s Touchless Faucet

Touchless faucets are nothing new, but Kohler is bringing that technology to your home bathroom. 

You’ve seen them in airports, arenas, restaurants and more. Touchless technology unquestionably prevents the spread of germs and limits water use. 

Kohler’s touchless bathroom faucet gives you those touchless faucet benefits in the privacy of your home bathroom.


This post is sponsored by The Home Depot, and this page contains affiliate links. If you purchase a product from these links, we will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.


Kohler touchless bathroom faucet activated with hand
This Kohler touchless bathroom faucet doesn’t need any knobs, so it opens up valuable countertop space. (3 Echoes Content Studio)

With soft curves and a streamlined design, this Kohler touchless bathroom faucet complements a variety of bathroom decors. 

This touchless water faucet not only helps to limit water waste, but it’ll also save on your utility bill. You’ll be doing your part to conserve this precious resource while saving yourself a few dollars.  

Because it’s touchless, that means fewer fingerprints. Plus, this Kohler touchless bathroom faucet has Spot Repel finish, so it resists fingerprints, smudges and water spots. 

Kohler’s response technology uses a state-of-the-art motion sensor for reliable touchless activation. Just wave your hand to turn the water on and off. 

The only time you need to touch the faucet is to adjust the temperature. Twist the temperature regulator at the top to customize how hot or cold you want your water.


You don’t need to buy any special batteries for this faucet — it’s powered by AA batteries. (3 Echoes Content Studio)

Installing this touchless water faucet is quick and easy. The kit comes with ​​supply lines, a plate, and a drain. The motion sensor is powered by six AA batteries, which are also included in the kit. 

Watch the video to learn all about this Best New Product!

Find the Kohler Willamette Battery Powered Touchless Single Hole Bathroom Faucet at The Home Depot.


Further Reading

How to Make a DIY Pizza Oven Stand

How to Make a DIY Pizza Oven Stand

Enjoy a perfect slice of backyard life by making a DIY pizza oven stand.

No day full of family, friends, and fun is complete without a great dinner to close out the night — and pizza makes for the perfect topping to any backyard party.

Follow along with Doug Scott, landscape designer and host of Exmark’s Done-In-A-Weekend project series, to learn how to build a DIY pizza oven station.


DIY pizza oven stand next to a Big Green Egg
This DIY outdoor pizza oven stand will complement any grilling area. (Exmark)

What You’ll Need

Tools

  • Miter saw
  • Screw/drill bits
  • 1 1/4 inch screws
  • 1 5/8 inch screws
  • 2-inch screws
  • Tape measure
  • Marking pencil
  • Eye and ear protection
Pressure-treated boards will stand up to the outdoor elements. (Exmark)

Materials

Legs

  • (4) 2 inch x 2 inch x 32 inch pressure-treated boards

Frames

  • (4) 1-inch x 4-inch x 26 1/4 in. pressure-treated boards
  • (4) 1 in. x 4 in. x 34 1/2 in. pressure-treated boards
  • (1) 1 in. x 4 in. x 24 1/2 in. pressure-treated board

Cleats

  • (2) 1 in. x 2 in. x 31 1/2 in. pressure-treated boards
  • (2) 2 in. x 2 in. x 21 3/4 in. pressure-treated boards

Top

  • (5) 2 in. x 6 in. x 48 in. pressure-treated boards

Shelf

  • (10) 1 in. x 4 in. x 24 1/2 in. pressure-treated boards

Riser

  • (7) 1 in. x 4 in. x 21 in. pressure-treated boards
  • (2) 1 in. x 4 in. x 24 1/2 in. pressure-treated boards

Backboard

  • (9) 1 in. x 4 in. x 24 in. pressure-treated boards
  • (2) 1 in. x 4 in. x 53 1/2 in. pressure-treated boards

How to Build a Pizza Oven Station

The two 1-inch x 4-inch boards give the legs extra support. (Exmark)

1. Take two of the 2-inch x 2-inch leg boards and one of the 1-inch x 4-inch x 34 1/2-inch frame boards. Place the 2-inch x 2-inch boards on both ends of the 1-inch x 4-inch board, making sure to align the edges and corners.

Then, take the other 1-inch x 4-inch board and repeat the step above for the other end of the 2-inch x 2-inch leg boards, but instead align it about five inches from the end of the leg board.

Drilling a screw into pressure-treated wood
This 1-inch x 2-inch cleat will hold up the bottom shelf boards. (Exmark)

2. Screw a 1-inch x 2-inch cleat horizontally along this second 1-inch x 4-inch board, making sure it’s aligned between the 2-inch x 2-inch leg boards.

3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the second pair of legs.

The 1-inch x 4-inch x 26 1/4-inch frame boards complete the frame for the top. (Exmark)

4. Stand up both sets of legs, making sure the ends with the 1-inch x 4-inch boards are flush with the ground, and that the sides with the cleats are pointed inwards. Take the 1-inch x 4-inch x 26 1/4-inch frame boards and use them to connect the two sets of legs, screwing them into the corners of all four frame boards.

5. Flip the build over.

These notches make the bottom shelf line up flush with the frame boards (Exmark)

6. Next, take two of the 1-inch x 4-inch shelf boards and cut out a 2-inch x 2-inch square on the corner of each end of both boards. These squares should be on the same side of the boards.

Screw the newly cut board onto the cleat. (Exmark)

7. Take your newly cut boards and nest them in between the top frame boards, making sure the square you just cut out is flush with the leg boards, and screwing them into the 1-inch x 2-inch cleats.

The bottom boards should be spaces enough for water to drain. (Exmark)

8. Then, take the remainder of the shelf boards and screw them in between the two you just placed.

This middle board gives the top more support. (Exmark)

9. Screw the 1-inch x 4-inch x 24 1/2-inch frame board, aligned horizontally, into the middle of the top 1-inch x 4-inch x 34 1/2-inch boards.

The top boards will be screwed into these front and back cleat boards. (Exmark)

10. Screw 1-inch x 2-inch cleat boards on the front and back of the very top of the build.

Just like on the bottom shelf, the top shelf boards should have some space between them. (Exmark)

11. Take all five of the top boards and screw them into place, using the cleats you just installed.

The backboard support boards should be spaced about 5 or 6 inches apart. (Exmark)

12. Take the 1-inch x 4-inch x 53 1/2-inch backboards and screw one to line up vertically with the back left corner of the build. Screw the next board in, spaced out about five or six inches to the right of the first.

The riser boards should extend 1 inch off of the inner backboard. (Exmark)

13. Take the other 1-inch x 4-inch x 21-inch riser boards and screw them horizontally in front of the vertical boards you just installed, aligning them so the right vertical support is one inch off the end of the 1-inch x 4-inch x 24-inch boards.

The oven platform creates space for utensils under the pizza oven. (Exmark)

14. Finally, put together the oven platform by placing the 1-inch x 4-inch x 24 1/2-inch boards on their sides (long ways) and screwing the 1-inch x 4-inch x 21-inch boards to adjoin them, making sure all the corners are flush.

Watch the video to see how it’s built!



Of course, no build is complete without the paint or stain to match your backyard aesthetic, and the necessary sealer to help it withstand everything Mother Nature will throw at it.

Once your DIY outdoor pizza oven stand is assembled, all that’s left to do is invite your friends and family over, buy the ingredients and bake away!


Looking to breathe new life into your outdoor spaces? Look no further than simple, cost-effective DIY projects. Exmark’s Done-In-A-Weekend project series will help you enjoy a better backyard life!


Further Reading

Changing a Spare Room into a Diva Den

Changing a Spare Room into a Diva Den

This week, we’re transforming a dull dining room into a diva den.

Homeowner Robin Stafford hasn’t used this room for dining since she moved into her home, so we’re going to turn it into a unique space for her to relax and unwind with her daughter. 


Vertical stripes draw the eye up and highlight the room’s tall ceilings. (3 Echoes ContentStudio)

Paint Accent Wall

To create a focal point for the room, we paint a vertical striped accent wall. The vertical stripes draw your eyes up the wall and call attention to the tall ceiling.

Removing this chair rail is easy with a trim puller and a hammer. (3 Echoes Content Studio)

First, we remove the chair rail so the room looks as big as it feels.

Applying a thin layer of drywall mud makes it like the chair rail was never there. (3 Echoes Content Studio)

Next, we patch the nail holes with drywall mud.

After all the holes are filled, we put a fresh coat of paint on the wall.

We use a level to ensure the vertical stripes are even. (3 Echoes Content Studio)

Next, we measure out the width of our stripes and mark the lines with a pencil. Then, we use a level to create straight vertical lines for the tape to go over. we tape our vertical stripes on the wall. 

For the stripe colors, we’re going with tan and white. To make painting easier, we mark the slats for the tan stripes with an “x.” 

Pulling the tape while the second coat of paint is still wet makes for clean lines. (3 Echoes Content Studio)

We use painter’s tape to mark off the stripes on the wall. After the tape is in place, we use the wall color to seal off the tape so none of our stripe color gets underneath.

We then apply two coats of our stripe color and remove the painter’s tape. 

The new accent wall stands out and draws eyes up. (3 Echoes Content Studio)

We have big plans for this hand-me-down dresser. (3 Echoes Content Studio)

Convert Dresser to Bar

Robin has a dresser she inherited from her mother that we’re able to reuse and reconfigure for a bar.

We remove the bottom two drawers to create a large bottom shelf for bottles. Then, we take out the large top middle drawer and convert that space into a wine rack. 

We keep the top side drawers for storage space. 

We remove the bottom rails to make space for a shelf. (3 Echoes Content Studio)

We remove the bottom rails that dived of the old bottom drawers with an oscillating saw.

We repurpose the backboard as the bottom shelf. (3 Echoes Content Studio)

Next, we reuse the wood on what used to be the back of this dresser as the finished inside of our bottom cabinet.

To keep it in place without using a bunch of nails, we use Titebond Original Wood Glue. 

This old dresser now serves more of a purpose as a bar. (3 Echoes Content Studio)

After we reconfigure the dresser into a bar, we prime and paint it a new fun color.


LED light tape plus sheer curtains provide unique lighting to our diva den. (3 Echoes Content Studio)

Install Ceiling Drape and LED Lights

To give this diva den a relaxing lounge feel, we’re draping some sheer chiffon curtains at the top of this tall ceiling for a cabana feel. 

To get this effect, we used three curtains and nailed the panels to the ceiling.

The LED light tape changes colors with a click of a button. (3 Echoes Content Studio)

For some fun lighting, we installed LED light tape along the ceiling. These lights change color with the click of a button. 

We also:

  • Built a day bed
  • Added shelves
  • Spray-painted planter gold
  • Spray-painted wall plates

Our new diva den provides ample space for lounging. (3 Echoes Content Studio)

Post-Production Thoughts

Robin’s formal dining room had great natural light, tall ceilings and plenty of space, but it had no real purpose. So, it became a catch-all for furniture that had no other home. Because it was right next to the front door, it was the very first thing her guests saw.

But now, the room has a purpose and personality.

The bold stripes on the accent walls draw you in and accentuate the height of the ceiling, which makes a statement of its own with the soft LED lights filtering through the sheer drapes. This ceiling makes it clear this room is designed for relaxation.

Of course, the custom day bed fits in perfectly with that scheme. It’s simple, comfortable, and complements the striped wall behind it. The dresser-turned-bar adds a pop of color to the room and pays homage to Robin’s mother while it serves a very practical purpose.  


Other Tips From This Episode


Products Featured in This Episode

Materials for Day Bed

This page contains affiliate links. If you purchase a product from these links, we will earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.


Further Reading

How to Build a Twin Day Bed

How to Build a Twin Day Bed

Day beds are versatile pieces of furniture that don’t have to be confined to a bedroom.

Place a twin-sized one in a den for both comfy lounge seating and a spare bed for guests.

Here’s how to build one yourself. 


Why is it called a day bed? Because it can be made in a day! (3 Echoes Content Studio)

Materials

Cut List

These are the cuts you’ll need for a twin day bed. You can alter the dimensions depending on the size of your mattress.

  • (4) 2×3 at 34-1/2 inches (legs)
  • (4) 2×3 at 40 inches (side rails)
  • (2) 3/4-inch plywood at 40 inches by 26-1/2 inches (side panels)
  • (1) 3/4-inch plywood at 77 inches by 26-1/2 inches (back panel)
  • (2) 1×4 at 34-3/4 inches (side rails)
  • (1) 1×3 at 77 inches (back rail)
  • (1) 1×6 at 77 inches (front rail)
  • (3) 1×3 at 77 inches (mattress slat supports)
  • (2) 1×3 at 40 inches (mattress slat supports)
  • (17) 1×3 at 41-1/2 inches (mattress slats)

Build Side Frames

Drilling in wood screws into a bed frame
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

Begin by cutting the 2-by-3’s for the two side frames. Layout these parts on a table and attach the horizontal rails between the vertical supports. 

Drilling a countersink bit
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

Pre-drill with a countersink bit so you can putty over the screw holes later. 

Ridgid circular saw cutting plywood
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

When both sides are assembled, cut two pieces of plywood to the inside dimensions of the frames.

Hammering plywood into the frame of a daybed
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

The plywood panels fit inside the frames, centered on the 2-by-3. 

Drilling wood screws into a bed frame
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

Fasten the plywood using the same technique used on the frame. 


Assembling a bed frame
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

Connect Sides to Back Panel

To construct the back of the day bed, join the two sides with 2-by-3’s at the top and bottom that are the same length as the mattress.

Cut another plywood panel to fit into this opening and attach it just like the side panels.  


Add Support and Front Skirt

Nail a wood frame on a day bed
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

Next, attach 1-by-3s to the inside of the bottom rails using finish nails.

Nailing a wood frame on a bed
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

Cap the top of the frame on both sides and the back with more 1-by-3’s. 

Nailing a front skirt to a day bed
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

Across the front of the bed, nail a 1-by-6 skirt board between the sides, flush with the inside edge of the frame.

Nail gun nailing a front skirt to a bed
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

Screw in a 2-by-3 behind the front skirt to support it.

Drilling a support beam for a bed
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

Next, add another 2-by-3 support midway between the front and back of the bed. 


Bed slats on a frame
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

Add support slats

Attach the 1-by-3 slats that will support the mattress from front to back. Space them at about three-inch intervals. 


Man applying caulk to day bed
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

Paint and Add Caning

Next, prime the frame. Caulk all the seams for a seamless finish.

Then, apply two coats of paint. 

Staple gun and caning on the back of a day bed
(3 Echoes Content Studio)

The final touch is the addition of caning panels on the sides and back of the bed.

Roll the caning out and cut it to size. Then, staple it in place.

Attach a piece of narrow molding to conceal the ragged edges and give the bed a finished look.


Further Reading