Most people can agree that certain original details in homes are major selling points: hardwood floors in great condition, plenty of well-maintained windows, and working fireplaces. Other features can be more polarizing. Some prefer closed floorplans, while others choose to tear down as many walls as possible; some love wood paneling while others opt for plain drywall instead. Vintage tile, though? That can be considered trash or treasure, depending on who you’re talking to. Now, I can absolutely understand disliking one’s tile. In a previous apartment bath of mine, every inch of the bathroom was covered in garish yellow and brown tile, and when combined with an outdated sliding shower door and builder-grade finishes, let’s just say the space was a sore sight.
That said, tile is expensive, and so is a kitchen or bathroom remodel, assuming you own your home and can demo and redesign in the first place. What’s more, tile that’s original to an older home has likely withstood decades of use because it’s high-quality and arguably was installed with more care than homes are often given today. Not to mention, plenty of people absolutely adore retro tile work, so it’s not outside the realm of possibility for it to grow on you, too. So if you can find a way to live with the potentially outdated tile in your home, I’m all for it. There are some other not so obvious advantages to older tile, too.
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Take Rachel Ramsower and her Austin, Texas-based rental, for example. “When I came across a home with a pink kitchen, a ’70s tiled bathroom, and old character, I knew we had to move in,” she says. “I’ve always had a love for older homes that have their fair share of quirky elements, and that was what immediately drew me to our now home. My boyfriend, Ethan, could tell you he is more of a modern guy, but to my surprise, he fell in love with our little vintage space!”
As shown above, the home features a patchwork rainbow of pastel tiles in the bathroom, which makes it a vibrant, unique space that’s certainly a conversation starter for guests. Others might balk at the retro randomness of the pattern, but there’s a silver lining here. If one tile cracks or needs replacing, finding a vintage tile that’ll work with this color scheme and arrangement won’t be nearly as tough as needing a perfect shade match.
The kitchen, which sports a pastel pink counter and backsplash, is actually Ramsower’s favorite part of the home. “I mean, how cute is the pink kitchen!” she says. “This tiny ’70s kitchen is without a doubt my favorite element of our home. A huge bonus is just how perfect my vintage blue bar cart looks in there.” One more perk: You can lean into vintage furnishings to play up your retro tile as Ramsower did, which will make your home feel more personal and storied. So perhaps the next time you’re wavering on whether you can’t stand the tile original to your home or not, take a page out of Ramsower’s book and just try embracing it for what it is. You’ll save time, money, and effort in the process, and you may just learn to love ‘em.
It’s not every day that I get worked up over bathroom grout. After all, it’s a fairly utilitarian finish, necessary for keeping shower tiles, backsplashes, and floors set in place, and so often, the piece of this puzzle that’s the most dazzling is the tile. With the rise of perfectly-imperfect zellige tile, colorful subway tile, and tons of imported patterned and textured tiles, it can be daunting to even choose which direction you want to go for a given space with your walls and floors… let alone your grout. That’s why so much grout ends up being, well, white or gray.
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I suppose when you’re the proprietor of a well-curated store of vintage furniture (and your apartment is just above said store), you’re more likely to dream up clever, out-of-the-box finishes for utilitarian things that don’t always shine. The proprietor at hand is Fiona Watt, who owns The Apartment, an online and IRL store dedicated to one-of-a-kind vintage wares, and the shower — which is located smack-dab in the middle of her apartment, mind you — is a scene-stealer in all the best ways.
“As a designer,” she says, “the biggest challenge with my space was the shower being located in the kitchen.” Surely, this is an unusual quirk for an apartment but not one that would deter some city-dwellers accustomed to making concessions to live in a desirable area. “Originally, it resembled a claustrophobic, dark, closet-like stall that had one of those terrible molded plastic liners,” Watt continues. “With a small budget of $3,000, I’ve completely transformed the space. Now in its place stands a spacious, bright, bold spa-like shower.” That area is what’s on display here, and for such a small shower surround, it’s worth seeing all the angles so you can take it all in.
In fact, upon first glance, the shower looks like it might be plain white tile with a clear, gridded shower curtain in front of it, but it’s actually white, square tiles with bright pink grout. The look is Tetris meets Barbie meets graph paper in the best way possible, and I’d say it owes that epithet to the grout, which is the unexpected choice here that elevates the plain white tile. “My favorite elements are the custom made pink grout and the candy-apple red shower fixtures,” says Watt. “Walking into the space now, the juxtaposition feels more intentional and creates a connection between the shower and the rest of the kitchen.”
The upshot here? Whether your bathroom is on display in your kitchen or not, colored grout might be the one thing that’s missing from your design scheme. It’s a small tweak that you can make for a relatively low-cost that can really change the look and feel of a bathroom. More colored grout in 2023, please and thank you!
This week, hear our thoughts on extending a tile backsplash to a side wall and tips for hanging outdoor holiday lights. (Greg Wolf/bauhaus1000, Getty Images Signature)
Hour 1
Hear Joe’s tips for hanging holiday lights, options for installing a side wall tile backsplash, repairing a rotten door jamb, and more.
Tips for Hanging Holiday Lights
Net lights, like the one on these bushes, evenly distribute lights on contoured surfaces. (bauhaus1000, Getty Images Signature)
Winter’s almost here, and as the days are getting shorter, there’s one bright spot on the horizon — it’s now time to decorate your home with holiday lights!
When hanging holiday lights on your home, switch up the types to add some variety.
To highlight your roof, use traditional C9 or icicle lights. Run C9 string lights along the eaves — usually attached to the gutters — and then up the gable ends to the peak of the roof. You can also place C9 light strands vertically down each corner of the house to outline your home for more brightness and definition. Or, string icicle lights from second-story balconies or perimeter joists of decks, or hang them from rain gutters.
For wrapping columns, railings or trees, use mini string lights. Mini strings have bulbs closely spaced along the strand for more lights overall, so they’re ideal for spiral-wrapping columns, posts, and porch and deck railings.
To illuminate shrubs, bushes and hedges, use net lights. These lights are easy to drape over contoured surfaces.
Use spotlights to illuminate certain areas of your home, like where wreaths are hanging.
Quick tip: Never connect strings of lights together that are different light counts. For instance, don’t connect a 100-light string to a 50-light string. If you mismatch the light counts, the string with the fewest bulbs with burn out prematurely.
Should you add a tile backsplash to this side wall? It depends on your preferences. (Photo courtesy Greg Wolf)
A homeowner is installing a tile backsplash in his kitchen between the upper cabinets and the back edge of the countertop, and he wants to know the preferred installation on the blank side wall.
“Do you keep that blank? Tile it from the bottom of the top cabinet all the way down? Or add an edging piece on the bottom? My main two concerns are the look and if it does not have a backsplash then it leaves that part of the wall unprotected,” he says.
Essentially, what he’s asking is how to finish off that edge that’s not capped off by the cabinets or the countertop backsplash. There are several different things you can do, and what it really boils down to is your personal preference.
What we’ve done most often in a case like this is not install the backsplash on that outer wall — just butt it up to the corner, and leave the tile backsplash in between the cabinet and counter. Of course, this doesn’t give that wall any protection.
However, we’ve also done it the other way, bringing the tile even to under the wall cabinet and matching it to the top of the countertop. Then, add a metal strip at the top and end of the backsplash to give it a finished look. Depending on the type of tile you use, you can use grout instead. Just be sure to use some painter’s tape to get a clean line.
A middle-of-the-road option is to continue the backsplash but only to the point of the upper cabinet. Don’t extend it to the front edge of the countertop. This way, it wraps around the corner but doesn’t stick too far out.
Repairing a Rotting Door Jamb
This rotten door jamb can easily be fixed with some auto body filler. (Photo courtesy Wes Allbrighton)
When you’re dealing with damaged woodwork, the question that always follows is, “Do I repair it or do I replace it?”
The answer can be found in the purpose of the damaged component. If its function is purely aesthetic — like molding, trim, or siding — then it can often be patched.
Automobile body filler, like Bondo, is a great choice because this two-part compound dries very hard, very quickly, so you can fill voids and make repairs very easily.
Once it’s dry, sand it just like wood to create a smooth, finished surface.
Hear tips for hiding electronic cords, addressing condensation issues on A/C ducts and more.
Tip for Hiding Electronic Cords
Dangling TV cords are an eyesore. We have two ways you can hide them. (Adobe Stock)
A homeowner is looking for advice on how to hide ugly electronic cords.
“We remodeled our family room recently and installed a new flat-screen TV and sound system. The TV is mounted to the wall and the rest of the electronic equipment is on nearby shelves. The problem is that there are wires everywhere. We tried tucking them away and securing them with zip ties, but it’s still an ugly, tangled mess. Do you know how I can hide the wires from view?” he asks.
This is a very common problem with several different approaches to solve it.
The easiest option is to use a cable raceway. It’s a plastic cover that attaches to the wall with adhesive. You can paint it to match the wall, and that way, you won’t see any dangling wires.
However, nothing is as good as routing the lines behind the wall. If the equipment can be located below the TV, like on a shelf, you can drop the wires inside the wall and bring them out by the electrical outlet.
Addressing Condensation Issues on A/C Ducts
Foil-faced duct insulation won’t help with condensation unless the ducts are sealed with mastic. (Kameleon007, Getty Images Signature)
A homeowner is concerned about humidity and condensation problems with his insulated A/C ducts. They’re wrapped with foil-faced insulation, which he says appears to be in good condition.
He wants to know: “Can I simply wrap the ducts with another layer of insulated foil-faced duct insulation? Or, can I drape unfaced batts over and around the ducts? Or, would it be best to remove all the existing insulation and start from scratch?”
Oftentimes, A/C ducts are insulated but not sealed. You’re supposed to seal them with a mastic. Brush it on all the joints and it stops the flow of air from leaking out, then you insulate it.
Since the insulation is in good condition, we suggest removing part of it to make sure these joints are sealed.
If they aren’t, remove the insulation and seal the joints, then re-apply the insulation. As always, it never hurts to add more insulation around them.
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Simple Solutions
Place a pencil in the quarter-inch notch, then slide the speed square along the board to draw a straight line. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
5 Ways to Use a Speed Square —The ingeniously simple speed square is an efficient and useful hand tool. Here are five of its popular uses:
Because of its triangular shape, a speed square is great for marking 90-degree square crosscuts and 45-degree lines.
A speed square can be used as a protractor. Hold its pivot point against the edge of the board and then rotate to mark angles between zero and 90 degrees.
A speed square has quarter-inch notches that can be used to quickly scribe lines onto a board. Put your pencil into one of the notches and slide it along the board.
Most speed squares have a diamond cutout exactly 3½-inch from the edge of the square, which is exactly the width of a 2×4. Put your pencil in the cutout and slide it along the board to draw a line that’s exactly the width of a 2×4.
Saw guide — hold the square against the board’s edge and guide the saw right along the edge of the square to produce a perfectly straight, square cut.
Have leftover tiles after completing a project? Make a trivet out of one! (3 Echoes Content Studio)
Homemade Trivet — Protect tabletops and counters by making a trivet from a leftover ceramic tile.
Start by spraying a light coating of cooking oil spray onto a piece of wax paper.
Then, lay two paint sticks across the wax paper. Next, use a hot-melt glue gun to put a half-inch-diameter dab of hot glue onto each back corner of the tile.
Then, immediately press the tile down onto the wood sticks. The sticks serve as spacers to ensure that each glue pad is exactly the same thickness, and the cooking oil prevents the glue from sticking to the wax paper.
Let the glue harden for a few minutes, then peel off the wax paper.
This week, hear how to fill in scratches on a wood floor, relevel a brick walkway, and more. (Joanne Millum/Terri Dudley)
Hour 1
Listen to hear how to fill in scratches on a wood floor, relevel a brick walkway, and more.
Fixing Scratched Floors
Scratches on wood floors are an eyesore, but you can lessen the look of them. (Joanne Millum)
Joanne Millum has beautiful hardwood floors in her mid-century home. Unfortunately, when a repairman moved the fridge to check a filter, it left gouges and scratches across the wood grain.
She wants to know: “Is there any way to fix that? One side is worse than the other.”
The only way to completely get rid of scratches is to refinish the floor.
But first, go to The Home Depot and get some Rejuvenate Wood Floor Restorer. This product is like a cleaner/filler for wood floors.
Clean your wood floors first, and apply it to the damaged area. This will help blend in the scratches to the rest of the floor.
Here’s our suggestion for preventing future scratches near the fridge — Cut a thin piece of paneling to the width of the refrigerator, and store it in the garage. Whenever you need to take the fridge out, tip it and slide the paneling under it to prevent any scratches.
Releveling an Uneven Brick Walkway
These unlevel bricks on this walkway are a tripping hazard. (Terri Dudley)
Tree roots have shifted the bricks on Terri Dudley’s walkway, and it’s now become a tripping hazard. The tree has since been cut down, but the roots are still intact around the stump and under the walkway.
“I am a widow with a disabled daughter. Do you have any suggestions on how to make it safe?” she asks.
In a situation like this, it’s hard to tell what can fix the problem until you start removing the bricks. Depending on how the bricks are installed, it could damage the bricks bringing them out of there unless they’re loosely laid.
Don’t touch the bricks that are flat and smooth. Remove all of the ones that are displaced, and use a reciprocating saw to cut the root from the walkway. Pack in some soil or some crushed rocks, and replace the bricks. Fill in any voids with sand.
This may not get it 100 percent level, but it will eliminate the trip hazard.
Hour 2
Listen to learn how to fix peeling paint, drill into tile, correct gaps in bamboo floors and more.
Fix for Peeling Paint in a Bathroom
Warm, moist air can cause paint to peel from walls. (Taveesaksri, Getty Images)
The paint is peeling off the ceiling in Philip Costa’s bathroom. He says the ceiling was plastered with a swirled pattern, and only a few areas are peeling.
“Do you have any ideas on how to fix this,” he asks.
First, you need to make sure your exhaust fan is working to remove all the hot, moist air in the bathroom.
The problem with exhaust fans is they get dirty and become ineffective. Try this test: take one square piece of toilet paper, turn the fan on, then hold it about an inch away from the grill. It should attach itself immediately to the fan, indicating the fan is drawing air up.
Make sure the exhaust fan is vented all the way to the outside. Make sure the air is coming out outside.
First, scrap all the paint off and sand the ceiling. Next, paint the whole ceiling with a bonding primer. Then, repaint it with two coats of acrylic latex paint. This binds it well.
This, coupled with making sure the hot, moist air is vented out, should eliminate the peeling paint.
Tip for Drilling into Tile
When drilling through tile, apply masking tape to keep the drill bit in place. (Getty Images)
Louis Sanchez just remodeled her master bathroom, which included tiling around the three walls of the toilet alcove. The tile extends up about 36 inches and is trimmed along the top edge with a natural-stone chair rail.
Before installing the tile, the toilet paper holder was screwed to the drywall.
“How would you suggest I attach the holder to the tile? I’m pretty handy, but I’m concerned about cracking our brand-new tile job.”
Trying to drill through a ceramic tile surround can be a challenge. The slick, glazed surface makes the masonry drill bit walk all over the tile.
I’ve heard some suggestions about using a nail to tap a slight indentation in the tile for a starting point, but this may end up cracking your tile.
Instead, try this: Place an “X” made from masking tape on the spot you want to drill. Use a pencil to mark the location on the top of the tape. The paper surface of the tape will keep your drill bit in place, allowing you to drill the hole where you need it.
Once drilled, simply remove the tape, and you’re ready to install the toilet paper holder. I recommend using a toggle bolt that goes through the tile into the cavity in the wall.
Of course, if you’re worried about ruining the new tile, you can do away with the attached toilet paper holder and opt for a free-standing one instead.
Gaps in Bamboo Floors
Bamboo flooring can expand and contract like regular hardwood. (gyro, Getty Images)
Cathy Cooly had bamboo hardwood floors installed in her dining in 2013. She’s since noticed a gap that’s about 4 feet long and about 1/8-inch wide.
“What can I do to stop it from gapping or what can I do to remove the gap in the floor?” she asks.
A bamboo hardwood floor is typically glued down, so you can’t move the boards as you can with laminate floating floors.
You can try to fill in the gap with wood putty, but consider that the gap could be caused by thermal expansion.
In the wintertime, wood contracts, so that could be why the gap is noticeable. If you wait until summer, the wood might expand and fill the gap on its own.
Fill it with something flexible, like caulk to accommodate for the expansion.
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Simple Solutions
Carving jack-o-lanterns offers an opportunity to show your creative side. Give that pumpkin a personality — but light it without a flame! (DepositPhotos)
Jack-O’-Lantern Tips — After carving your Halloween pumpkin, dip it into an ice bath with one cup of bleach. Let it soak for several minutes, then dry it off and rub petroleum jelly onto the edges of all the cutouts.
This will help seal in moisture and make your jack-o’-lantern stay fresh throughout the holiday.
Many modern range hoods have LED lights that are flush with the surface, making them difficult to remove for replacement or cleaning. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
Bulb Removal Tip — Many modern range hoods have LED lights that are flush with the surface, making them difficult to remove for replacement or cleaning.
Plus, the bulbs aren’t threaded into a socket, but instead must be pushed up into the housing and rotated slightly to disengage it from two protruding lugs.
So, here’s how to remove flush bulbs: Take a length of duct tape and pinch it in the middle to create a T-shape with a tab that will serve as a handle. Stick the tape to the bulb, push up and twist it counter-clockwise.
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Aesthetically speaking, one of the most important decisions when choosing grout is whether it will blend with or stand out from the tile.
Light grout between light tiles can make your installation look like a single uniform piece — ideal for minimalist design. On the other hand, contrasting dark grout with light tiles makes a bold statement.
To pick grout color based on the impact you want your finished design to have, consider the following:
In This Article
Choose grout color based on the tiles’ style and design. (MultimediaDean/Getty Images)
Tile Design
Consider the tile’s characteristics and appearance. Then, answer these questions to ensure a successful installation:
Are the tiles patterned or do they have a solid color? With patterned tile, pick a grout color that best matches the tile edges so the pattern isn’t interrupted.
Are they natural stone or manufactured ceramic? For more contrast with natural stone tile, pick a darker color to highlight the dark veins.
If it is glass tile, is it transparent or opaque? White grout accentuates clear, iridescent and translucent glass tile.
Are there mosaic sheets or accents, and do they contain differently-colored tiles? Pick a neutral grout that works well with all the colors, or try a grout that’s light or dark enough for contrast.
Once you’ve answered these questions, it will be easier to determine which grout color will best suit the project.
When picking grout color for a backsplash, consider coordinating the color with the countertops. (TimAbramowitz, Getty Images Signature)
Room Colors
Look beyond the colors in the tile for grout color inspiration. Consider the walls, surfaces or fixtures, and use color theory to find a grout color based on those.
Maryville University describes color theory as the art of combining colors based on the color wheel to create harmonious color schemes.
Complementary colors are found opposite each other on the color wheel. (Adobe Stock)
The color wheel is an arrangement of all colors on the spectrum based on their relationships. To choose a grout color, use the wheel to create a color palette and find a complementary color.
Complementary colors are opposite each other on the color wheel. They enhance each other’s intensity when placed right next to each other, which is why they’re often used to create bold, high-contrast images that pop.
So, for instance, if your room is blue, choose a grout color with orange or yellow hues. Or if your room has shades of green, find a grout that has hints of mauve.
Dirt and spills are more noticeable on lighter-colored grout. (makasanaphoto, Canva)
Cleaning and Maintenance
Grout color can also have a major impact on tile installation and maintenance.
A lighter-colored grout can be easier to clean off the surface of tile during installation but is more difficult to maintain in high-traffic areas.
Dirt and spills are more noticeable, though a good sealer and cleaner can help to maintain the look of the original installation.
Darker grouts, meanwhile, may be more challenging to clean and are more noticeable on the surface of porous tile. Pre-sealing the tile can help eliminate this issue.
Once installed, darker grout does not show wear, dirt or damage as easily. In commercial kitchens, darker grout accents tiles and reduces the appearance of stains.
Fusion Pro Grout from Custom Building Products is stain resistant — no sealing is required. (3 Echoes Content Studio)
Custom Building Products Grout Selection
Once you choose a color, the next important decision is what type of grout to use.
Custom Building Products’ designer-inspired palette of grout colors provides 40 of the most popular shades.
Whether your installation requires a subtle color that matches the tile or a striking shade that accents your installation’s beauty, you can find the perfect grout with the performance characteristics that you need.
Grout Types
Fusion Pro Single Component Grout is a professional-grade sanded grout that features stain resistance with no sealing required. You don’t need to mix any other components to this grout, so it’s ready to use and easy to spread and clean. Fusion Pro can be installed in commercial and residential environments, interiors and exteriors, and on walls, floors and shower floors. Its patented formulation can be applied on all tiles and has built-in Microban antimicrobial product protection.
Prism Ultimate Performance Grout: Prism’s calcium Aluminate cement-based, latex polymer-modified formula offers consistent color with no shading regardless of tile type, temperature or humidity, and it will not effloresce. The rapid-setting formula results in high early strength and dense grout joints up to a half-inch. A unique blend of lightweight recycled glass and fine aggregate sand allows for a smooth consistency that is easy to spread and clean.
Polyblend Plus Sanded is a polymer-modified, cement-based sanded grout that produces hard, dense joints that resist shrinking, cracking, and wear. Formulated for durability, Polyblend Plus Sanded Grout accommodates 1/8- to 1/2-inch joints for interior or exterior installations, including floors, countertops, walls, ceilings, showers, fountains, and pools.
Polyblend Plus Non-Sanded is a polymer-modified, cement-based unsanded grout designed for highly glazed or polished tile, marble and natural stone that sanded grouts would scratch. This durable, non-shrinking grout accommodates joints up to 1/8-inch and can be used for interior or exterior installations, including floors, countertops, walls, ceilings, showers, fountains and pools.
SimpleGrout Pre-Mixed Grout is no-mix, no-mess alternative to traditional grout. This sanded, shrink- and crack-resistant formula also resists common household stains. SimpleGrout is easy to use, ideal for grout restoration and is available in eight colors.
No matter which grout you choose, always mix it according to the manufacturer’s instructions, if required. Improperly mixing the grout can lead to uneven color pigment distribution, which causes blotchy and inconsistently colored grout lines.
You don’t have to mix single-component grouts like Fusion Pro and premixed grouts like SimpleGrout; the color is already evenly distributed.
Find a caulk that matches the color of your grout for use on movement joints and changes of plane like Custom’s Commercial 100% Silicone Caulk. It’s easier to match grout colors when selecting both products from the same manufacturer, as the manufacturer will have designed the products to have the same hue.
Grout usually takes several days to cure and set, so if you’re concerned about color right after installation, give it time to get its final color.
Similarly, the color of the powder before installation and curing is different from the color of the finished plaster treated. Slight variations may occur based on mixing methods and drying conditions.
