Microwave speed with air fryer crispiness? Ninja’s new 2-in-1 appliance sounds almost too good to be true

Microwave speed with air fryer crispiness? Ninja’s new 2-in-1 appliance sounds almost too good to be true

Ninja has a shiny new release for those looking to save on worktop space: the 3-in-1 CRISPI Microwave, Air Fryer & Oven (now available for £359.99).

It’s the latest in a line of multi-hyphenate appliances which combine the two most convenient products in a kitchen: the speed of the best air fryers meeting the ease for reheating leftovers of the best microwaves.

Despite sounding great on paper, as Ideal Home’s Kitchen Appliances Editor, I’ve so far been disappointed in the microwave/air fryer hybrids we’ve tried so far. Here’s why I’m hoping this new iteration of the best Ninja air fryers is going to be the exception to the rule.

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If you own a Ninja air fryer already, you’ll know that this is the brand to go for if you want to maximise cooking power. With temperatures up to 240°C, that certainly looks like an advantage that will carry over with this clever combination buy.

Though this is advertised as a 3-in-1 (air fryer, microwave, oven) there are actually a whopping 13 functions available on the interface of the appliance. Eight of those are for microwaving to your hearts content, and 5 of them will be very familiar to those who love their existing Ninja air fryer.

Ninja air fryer microwave

(Image credit: Ninja)

Those five settings are: Air Fry, Max Crisp, Air Roast, Air Bake and Air Broil (which is the American term for grill). I own the Ninja Double Stack and the high heat and power of the Max Crisp setting means it’s never out of use in my household.

Using the microwave and air fryer elements separately is one thing, but the setting that has me most intrigued is Fusion Crisp. This button allows you to whip up ‘fast meals with a crisp finish’.

Once pressed, your device will begin by microwaving your food and then move onto auto finishing with air frying. That should, in theory, allow you to ‘go from frozen to crispy in minutes’. If it works well, this should make this microwave air fryer the most time-efficient buy in your kitchen.

Ninja crispi

(Image credit: Ninja)

Another winning feature of the original Ninja Crispi is present within this new version too: the introduction of glassware to help with efficient meal prep. With a 5.2 litre capacity and a matching lid, it’s perfect for saving on washing up. Capacity-wise, it can fit a 3kg chicken, according to Ninja, making enough food for up to eight people at a time.

Simply cook in it within the Crispi and then pop any leftovers straight into the fridge when you’re finished. And though it doesn’t come as standard, it looks as if you’ll also be able to separately invest in a steamer lid too – perfect for veggies, rice, dumplings and more.

Though it was released today (the 2nd of September), Ninja will always send their products ahead of time to reviewers. At the time of writing, this 3-in-1 has already gleaned a 4.7 star rating from 160 user reviews, which is a promising sign.

Our review of this innovative new Ninja is currently in the works so that we can let you know whether it’s Ideal Home approved for your home. Could you see this type of appliance working in your kitchen?

IKEA permanently slashes prices on hundreds of products – including these cult furniture buys

IKEA permanently slashes prices on hundreds of products – including these cult furniture buys

If you thought IKEA was already affordable, I have good news, as the Swedish retailer has just permanently slashed the prices of some of its most popular products.

Whether you’re putting an IKEA DIY hack into practice or following the latest home decor trends on a budget, IKEA is undoubtedly a go-to brand for many in the interiors world. And now, IKEA is dropping the prices of its bestsellers; it’s become even more affordable.

With cult products such as the KALLAX shelving unit, HEMNES daybed and the retro DIVYLINGE chair all seeing a reduction in price, here’s everything we know about IKEA’s New Lower Prices, and how it can save you money this autumn.

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IKEA’s New Lower Prices

A white bedroom with a pink bed and an IKEA KALLAX storage unit used as a bench with storage baskets placed at the foot of the bed

(Image credit: Future PLC/Dominic Blackmore)

Officially launching on Friday 28 August this year, IKEA’S New Lower Prices are, as IKEA states, not a sale, but the new normal. They have rounded up everything from some of their most recognisable furniture designs to everyday essentials to make shopping from your home more affordable.

If you’ve been worried about rising energy costs, increasing food prices and the general cost of living, it is quite refreshing to see a brand committed to doing the opposite. New Lower Prices will be available both in stores and online. Here are some of the best deals I’ve spotted since the launch.

Whether you’re giving your home an upgrade this autumn, sending a loved one off to university or moving home yourself, IKEA is helping to make furnishing a home more affordable. We can’t fault that.

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FAQs About Our New Floors

FAQs About Our New Floors

We’re working on a big post about our finished renovation (which we last talked about on the blog here). But I’m dropping in to answer questions about the new flooring that we chose for our entire first floor (except for the tiled bathrooms). They’ve been one of the most-asked-about details of our reno on Instagram, where Sherry shared this reno as it rolled along in our Stories. So today we’ll cover the what, why, and how of our new flooring. It’s our first time using this particular material, and we have some thoughts.

LVP Floors In Downstairs Renovation

You know we love saving and refinishing original hardwood flooring – we did it in our first house, our third house, the beach house, and the duplex – and each time we were extremely happy with the results. So back in 2020 it felt like a no-brainer to enthusiastically refinish the floors here and hope for the best.

To cut to the chase: we definitely had higher hopes for these floors, but they held up so poorly. And after 6 years of living with them, it became clear that this renovation was a crucial moment to pivot instead of attempting to patch in matching flooring in all the spots where we removed walls or added square footage (remember we finished the covered porch to become our daughter’s room).

View Of Opened Wall To French Doors During Renovation

New Floor FAQs

Here are the specific questions we’ll cover today:

  • Why did you replace your floors?
  • What flooring did you use?
  • How and why did you pick it?
  • Do you like them?

Why Did You Replace Your Floors?

You might be like: what the heck is different about this house than all the other houses where you refinished the original floors? Well, you may remember we have heart pine hardwoods upstairs, which is a pretty common and durable flooring type. It’s what we had at the beach house & the duplex, and we loved it. But we just had regular yellow pine downstairs here, and not the super old, dense pine that’s extra strong. This was newer yellow pine from the 90s.

So reason number one is just that the original flooring was not nearly as durable as we hoped it would be. Feel free to google “heart pine floors vs regular pine floors” for more info about how much they differ, but the general consensus is that pine is a softwood, especially yellow pine like ours. It dings, scratches, and dents easily from high heels, pets, or dropped objects. Meanwhile heart pine resists wear far better due to its high resin content (which we only have upstairs).

Long story long, yellow pine from that era just isn’t as durable of a flooring material – especially in rooms with frequent foot traffic by multiple people & pets. Especially not for a house by the beach with a pool (sand + water + wet towels galore).

The second reason is that when you’re moving walls and building a new addition, the new layout can leave lots of gaps in an old floor, some of which you can see below. We also created a whole new room that had no flooring at all! So it would’ve been challenging to patch & match the existing floors for a seamless look.

View From Existing Bathroom To New Living Area

But “challenging” doesn’t mean “impossible.” In fact, we’ve had hardwood floors patched in three of our previous homes with great results. So why not do that here?

View From Bathroom After The Renovation With New LVP Floors

Well, if we had loved how the old flooring had held up, it probably would have been worth the risk to us. We would have attempted to patch in new floors and hopefully could have gotten a reasonably close match. But in a nutshell, these floors were in rough shape. Like, embarrassingly bad in some spots – many of which you can see in the before & after video below.

Note: You can also watch this video on YouTube.

Reason number three is the way they were poorly refinished, which became clearer over time. We actually considered replacing the floors even before we came up with our big idea for the renovation, but could never quite justify disrupting the house so much… which is why we waited until the house was already getting disrupted for our big “this is it” reno that accomplished all of our goals for the house at the same time (you can read more about those here).

Close Up Of Pine Floor Damage In Daughter's Room

But wait, weren’t you “thrilled” with these floors when you moved in?” We were! Initially we were in love with how the floors turned out! The color was EXACTLY what we had wanted, and we loved their laid-back, rustic charm. We were also generally giddy about our new home’s overall transformation. And in some rooms (like our bedroom), the floors were virtually perfect.

Ep173 Florida House Floor Sanded Discolored

But the more time we spent living here, the more issues we noticed. We found areas that had been sanded, wood filled, and/or sealed poorly (like the edges of our stairs, which we ended up painting).

Close Up Photo Of Wood Stairs With Discolored Border

You may also remember from our home’s before photos that the previous owners had torn out a huge section of flooring due to a water leak. Many boards that the original contractor we used in 2020 had patched in began to separate and splinter over time. We believe they hadn’t been left to acclimate enough before installation, so as time went by, these separations and splinters occurred.

Close Up Of Pine Floor Damage In Doorways

While the blame for this would fall at that contractor’s feet, we give him some grace because this was all happening during the height of the pandemic (Spring of 2020), which likely contributed to him rushing & not using skilled floor refinishers for the job. We (years later) learned that he used general handmen for our floor refinishing project instead of hardwood specialists, which is who we’ve always hired for every flooring reno we’ve done in previous houses.

COVID also prevented us from being on the ground in Florida to catch some of the initial issues sooner (we didn’t lay eyes on the refinished floors until the day we moved in!). And I’ll say it again: in some areas, like our bedroom, they looked absolutely beautiful at first! Look how beautiful and gap free they look in this photo:

Bedroom On Move In Day With Mattress On The Floor

If they had stayed that good-looking over time, we would have stuck with patching things in and trying to make them work. But instead, as the years rolled by, we spent hours wood-filling cracks, screwing down squeaky spots, and covering bad areas with rugs as they continued to separate and pop and splinter apart. And all the while, things like dropping an apple (yes, an apple) or someone stepping inside for a minute with heels on made actual visible dents and dings in the floor.

True story: we once had an insurance inspector come in and say “this house looks so new except for all the floor gaps.” Le sigh.

Close Up Of Pine Floor Damage In Kitchen

Ultimately, the floors were one big disappointment, between the not-as-durable material, the installation issues, and the patching challenges we knew we’d encounter in the upcoming renovation. But we’re not sorry we tried our best to save them back in 2020. It bought us 6 years to figure out our dream floor plan, which was the perfect moment to right this wrong at the same time.

So, long story long, the decision to fully replace this flooring was an easy (albeit sad) decision.

What Flooring Did You Use?

The new flooring is LVP, or luxury vinyl plank. Which I know will surprise some of you. In fact I think a ton of you might be hardwood purists like we were after decades of refinishing them and having great results. First let me say that LVP has come a long way. So if you saw it (or stood on it) 10 years ago, this is not anything like that stuff.

For this house and this climate/location our first instinct (of course) was to redo the whole downstairs with our favorite hardwood method (unfinished white oak, nailed down and then finished in place). But then we walked into a house that our new contractor was building during the planning process of this remodel (we didn’t use the same contractor we hired back in 2020, we found our new one through a local realtor & friend who personally had used him twice). Anyway, we walked into that house and we both said “we really like these hardwoods – lets just do this” and he’s said: “this is LVP.”

And then our heads exploded.

Overhead Photo of New Floors With Cat On Carpet

The specific name of it is V-Evo XL by Durato in the color “Biscotti.” We got it through our contractor, who got it through a local distributor – but I’ve found it listed in a couple of places online (here and here) with pretty terrible pictures, but you can order a sample and see it for yourself. If anyone spots it elsewhere, let me know, and I will update my links!

So yes, this is our first time using LVP, and we know some people have strong opinions about it, especially when compared real hardwood floors (which is typically our preference too – we totally get what you’re thinking). So let me walk you through how we came to this decision, and how we feel about our LVP floors now that they’re in and we’ve lived with them for around four months.

Why Did You Choose LVP?

In talking with our contractor at the big “these are LVP floors” reveal in that fancy new house he was building, we learned that LVP has two key advantages in a beach house like ours: ease of installation and long-term durability in our environment. LVP also tends to be cheaper than real hardwood (we spent A LOT LESS per square foot for this than we would on new hardwoods), which is not the only reason we’d ever pick something, but along with those two other perks it was compelling.

New LVP Floors Overhead With Blue Rug

As for how it’s installed, LVP comes as pre-made planks that can be glued on or floated over a subfloor. Ours float, which makes it sound like they flex underfoot or sound hollow when you walk on them. Those were some of the misconceptions we had, but I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: LVP has come a LOOOOOONG way. Our floors feel completely solid, there is no flex or bounce in them. Sherry was delighted to discover that when you walk on them in heels, they make that satisfying deep clacking sound like hardwood (not the lighter clicking sound that earlier floating laminate floors made).

But back to the installation. Floating these pre-made planks makes for a much simpler and speedier installation than hardwoods, a contrast that we experienced firsthand when we did that in our last house. Those floors required 2+ weeks of laying, sanding, staining, sealing, and curing. It was long, messy, and smelly. By contrast, the LVP took one guy about 3 days – including demo of the old floor – and we could walk on it immediately. There was no smell, or extra waiting time to lay down rugs (I think they recommended 30 or even 45 full days of waiting to roll out rugs on our finished-in-place hardwoods in the last house).

New Hardwood Floors In Our Old House Before Staining

Choosing LVP this time also meant the flooring contractor could work in sections. So rather than having to move EVERYTHING out of our entire house’s downstairs, we just shifted furniture around as he worked his way through the house, clearing one half of a room at a time.

Beyond the easier install, LVP is also a popular choice because it’s waterproof and very durable. It’s a desirable choice in our area because you get the look of wood, but the performance of tile – so there’s less to worry about when people are coming in wet or sandy from the beach and pool. Another misconception we had is that the nice houses here don’t use LVP, they use hardwoods. Lo and behold, it’s so hard to tell that good-quality LVP isn’t hardwood, we learned that a ton of million-dollar beach homes are using LVP these days, because it looks like hardwood and it’s great for a beach environment.

New Floors By Backdoor With Cat Looking Out At Pool

So as much as we love real wood floors, all signs were pointing us towards LVP this time around, and we’re very very happy with our choice.

How’d You Pick This Specific Color and Size of LVP?

While standing in that home our contractor brought us to (wherein we basically screamed “we’ll have what they’re having!”) our contractor explained that we could choose narrower planks or other finishes. He even had a scrap piece of the Biscotti flooring from that new build and gave it to us while we were there. So we just that plank home and put it down in a few spots around the house and instantly knew it would be great.

We didn’t have any desire to change the thickness or the color at all, thanks to seeing it installed in the house he took us to. I’m sure we were also wowed by the general grandeur of this home (it was a fancy new build), but seeing it fully installed somewhere totally sold us on it. We decided not to overcomplicate this decision by comparing dozens of options when we had a perfectly great one laid out before us.

I can’t underline how much it helped to see it in person in another home first (and stand on it, and walk on it, and bend down and inspect it), thanks to our contractor bringing us to that house – so I’d highly recommend that if possible.

Do We Like Our LVP Floors?

Short answer: YES! Our old floors were long past the point of “rustic” and “charming” – so getting to walk on even, quiet, and won’t-give-you-a-splinter flooring feels downright luxurious. Longer answer: Yes, but there are certainly some differences from hardwood, if you’re a hardwood enthusiast like us. We’ll get into that more in a second.

First we just have to take a moment of appreciation. There’s no doubt that our new floors are the biggest unsung hero of this renovation. The new lounge area, extra bathroom, and open view to our pool are the more obvious improvements, but the new floors bring a sense of polish we could never achieve by patching in some yellow pine, just due to how it wears over time. No matter how well we worked to make them match and to get them glossy and crack-free at first, we knew that over time they wouldn’t hold up.

New LVP Floors Running Through Kitchen In Downstairs Renovation

We’re really happy with the color, the wood grain, and the wide plank too. That last detail, in particular, helps our rooms feel larger than they actually are. They also make our home feel fresher and more updated. Our goal isn’t for a house to look brand new when renovating (we love an old house!) but having our floors look so bad a few years after refinishing was whispering “neglected” instead of “lovingly restored.” So going from a house that had annoying gaps and globs of wood putty to a fresh and smooth flooring result has been great.

And because this house was built in 1991 (it’s hardly historic), we love the wide planks, which are pretty popular in our area (this wasn’t an out-there choice). I will say, if you’ve got an older home or live in more historic area, I probably wouldn’t pick this wide-plank style. Maybe try something a bit darker and skinnier for less of a beach house vibe.

New LVP Floors In Renovation Near Lounge Chair

And now, here is what you’ve all been waiting for: the two things we had to adjust to with LVP after being such lifelong hardwood fans.

First, if you’re barefoot, the floors don’t feel like real hardwood on your feet. I can’t really describe how the feeling is different, just that it is. It’s not a bad thing, but you might be disappointed if you were hoping to pass them off as real hardwoods during a sockless party (you know, those are a thing, right?).

It’s like your feet can tell that the material is denser (it’s great for sound blocking) and not as slick. Our friends recently used LVP in their new home, and they observed the same thing about theirs. We both agreed that we love it overall, but it’s funny how your bare feet can tell the subtle difference in density and slickness. With socks and shoes on, you can’t tell though. At least we can’t.

The other adjustment was that it was sort of a rough feeling on our feet for the first week or so. It was as if the faux wood grain texture was just a little too “coarse” right out of the box. A few days after walking around on it, we’re not sure if our feet just adjusted or if we actually sanded it down a little with the foot traffic? Either way, then it wasn’t noticeable at all, and if you asked me now “does the floor feel rough?” I’d be like “…no. I’d describe it as smooth. Why would you say that?” It was just a funny and unexpected phenomenon at first, so heads up if you use the same or similar flooring!

LVP Floor In Ikea Kitchen With Mauve Pink Cabinets

The last thing is that, while it is durable, LVP is not indestructable. We already put a small ding under our refrigerator because we forgot to raise the metal foot on the fridge before rolling it out. It’s not noticeable, but it was a reminder that (unlike hardwood) damage to LVP isn’t something you can sand or buff out. So that’s a mental adjustment for us, especially after so many years of trying to salvage our old floors with wood putty and wax. The good news is that we’ve dropped many things heavier than an apple without a dent, and Sherry has heel-tested them (no dings, wheras our previous floors looked hole-punched). So yes, overall they’re much more durable. We also have some extra boxes of this exact flooring (always get extra!) so we can replace any areas that might get dented somehow.

What About Your Upstairs Floors?

We didn’t do anything to our upstairs floors as part of this renovation. They’re still the original floors that we had refinished in 2020. Yes, that means our upstairs floors don’t match our downstairs floors. But… they never did! The upstairs has that much harder heart pine flooring that has held up a lot better than the regular pine downstairs.

Upstairs family room with plants and Serena & Lily capiz pendant light

Look ma, no cracks!

Maybe someday we’ll redo these to match the LVP downstairs if it bothers us over time, but the two materials never touch because we’ve got the painted stairs with the sisal runner separating them. Since the upstairs floors never pinch or splinter us, we don’t feel any urgency, and actually like that some of the orignal hardwoods get to live on up there.

View of Upstairs and Downstairs Floors Down Staircase with Sisal Runner

So that’s the 411 on our new floors. We’ll get back to work on that larger post about the rest of our renovation, including our new bathroom. It’s pretty wild how much has changed thanks to this project, and we’re so glad we waited over 5 years to do it so we could be sure exactly what we wanted to get out of the update. It has exceeded our expectations, and we both think that’s from living here so long and truly figuring out what issues nagged at us (and what things we guessed would be issues down the line but never actually were). Your vision and how you live in a house just gets clearer over time.

More Flooring Posts

Sherry and John Doing Flooring Projects Side By Side

Here are more flooring posts you might enjoy, including some DIY tutorials for installing a click-and-lock floor like LVP.

How To Choose The Right Dining Table Size For Your Space

How To Choose The Right Dining Table Size For Your Space

A dining table is often one of the largest pieces of furniture in a room, so getting the size right can make a surprisingly big difference. Choose one that’s too large and you’ll find yourself squeezing past chairs and edging around corners. Go too small and the table can look rather lost, particularly in an open-plan kitchen-diner or a generous dining room.

The ideal dining table needs to do more than physically fit into the available space. There should be enough room to pull chairs out comfortably, walk behind seated diners and move between the table and surrounding furniture. It also needs to accommodate the number of people who normally eat there without taking over the room when it isn’t being used.

Fortunately, you don’t need an enormous dining room to create a comfortable eating area. By taking a few measurements and thinking about how you actually use the space, it’s much easier to work out which table dimensions, shape and style will suit your home.

Table of Contents

Quick Answer: What Size Dining Table Do I Need?

As a general guide, it’s recommended that you allow around 60cm of table width per person and aim to leave at least 90cm between the edge of the dining table and walls or other furniture wherever possible.

For comfortable everyday dining, typical table sizes are:

Number of people Rectangular table Round table
2–4 people 90–120cm long 80–100cm diameter
4 people 120–140cm long 100–110cm diameter
4–6 people 140–180cm long 110–130cm diameter
6 people 160–180cm long 120–140cm diameter
6–8 people 180–220cm long 140–160cm diameter
8 people 220–240cm long 160–180cm diameter

These measurements are a useful starting point rather than rigid rules. The best table size will depend on the shape of the room, the type of chairs you choose, the table-leg position and how much circulation space you need.

Start by Measuring the Room

Before falling in love with a particular dining room table, measure the area where you intend to put it.

Measure the length and width of the usable floor space, rather than simply taking the dimensions of the entire room. In a kitchen-diner, for example, part of the room may already be needed for kitchen cabinets, an island or a walkway to the garden.

Make a note of anything that affects the usable space, including:

  • Doors and the direction in which they open
  • Radiators
  • Bay windows
  • Kitchen islands and peninsulas
  • Sideboards and display cabinets
  • Fireplaces
  • Routes between adjoining rooms
  • Patio or bifold doors
  • Built-in furniture

It’s particularly important to think about movement through the room. A table may technically fit into a space while making it irritatingly difficult to reach the kitchen or open the back door.

How Much Space Should You Leave Around a Dining Table?

This is one of the most important measurements to get right, especially in smaller spaces.

As a general rule, try to leave around 90cm between the edge of the table and the nearest wall or piece of furniture. This provides enough room for a dining chair to be pulled out and for someone to sit down reasonably comfortably.

If people regularly need to walk behind occupied chairs, 100–120cm is preferable.

You may be able to manage with around 75cm in a particularly compact dining area, but it will feel noticeably tighter. This is more suitable for an occasional dining space than somewhere used by a family several times a day.

Remember that these measurements should be taken from the table edge, not from the back of the chair when it’s tucked underneath.

A Simple Dining Table Space Calculation

There’s an easy way to estimate the largest comfortable table for your room.

Take the usable dimensions of the dining area and subtract approximately 180cm from both measurements. This allows for roughly 90cm of clearance on each side.

For example, if your dining area measures:

360cm x 300cm

subtract 180cm from each dimension:

180cm x 120cm

A table measuring around 180cm x 100cm could therefore work comfortably, leaving useful circulation space around it.

You don’t necessarily need to fill all the available space. In many rooms, choosing a slightly smaller table produces a more relaxed and balanced layout.

How Much Table Space Does Each Person Need?

For comfortable dining, allow approximately 60cm of table edge per person.

This gives most adults enough elbow room to eat without feeling crowded. If you have wide dining chairs or chairs with arms, allowing 65–70cm per person can be more comfortable.

Table depth matters too.

A rectangular dining table around 90cm wide works well for most homes because it gives diners sufficient space for plates and glasses while leaving room for serving dishes in the middle.

Tables around 75–80cm wide can work in smaller rooms, although the centre of the table will be more restricted. At the other end of the scale, very wide tables can make it surprisingly difficult to talk to or pass food to the person opposite.

Dining Table Sizes for 2, 4, 6 and 8 People

The number of people you want to seat will naturally influence your table size, but it’s worth distinguishing between everyday seating and occasional maximum capacity.

You don’t necessarily need an eight-seater permanently occupying the room just because you host eight people for family gatherings twice a year.

Dining Table for 2 People

For two people, a small table measuring around 70–80cm square can be perfectly adequate.

A round table of around 80–90cm diameter is another good choice, particularly in a small kitchen or dining corner.

If space permits, however, choosing something slightly larger gives you more flexibility for visitors, working from home or spreading out over breakfast at the weekend.

Dining Table for 4 People

For four diners, it’s helpful to look for approximately:

  • 120–140cm x 75–90cm for a rectangular table
  • 90–110cm for a square table
  • 100–110cm diameter for a round table

A 120cm rectangular table can accommodate four people comfortably, although moving up towards 140cm gives everyone a little more breathing room.

Dining Table for 6 People

For six people, a rectangular table of approximately 160–180cm long and 80–100cm wide is a useful size.

For a round table, look at approximately 120–140cm diameter.

A six-seater is often a particularly practical choice for family homes because it provides enough everyday space without becoming excessively large.

Dining Table for 8 People

For eight people, a rectangular table will generally need to be approximately 200–240cm long.

A round eight-seater may need to be around 150–180cm in diameter, depending on the design.

At this size, remember to consider the room around the table as well as the table itself. Eight dining chairs require considerable space when they’re all occupied.

Rectangular, Round, Square or Oval: Which Table Shape Fits Best?

Table size isn’t the only consideration when looking for a new dining table. Choosing a shape that complements the proportions of your room can help you make much better use of the available floor space.

Rectangular Dining Tables

Rectangular tables are popular for good reason. They’re easy to position, widely available and work particularly well in long or rectangular dining rooms.

They can also accommodate larger groups efficiently because additional people can often be seated at either end.

A rectangular table is usually a natural choice for an open-plan kitchen-diner where the dining area follows the shape of a kitchen island or run of cabinets.

However, watch out for the corners in narrow spaces. If circulation routes pass close to the table, a rectangular design can sometimes feel more intrusive than a curved alternative.

Round Dining Tables

A round dining table can be an excellent space-saving solution for a small or roughly square dining area.

Without corners projecting into the room, it’s easier to move around and can make a compact space feel less crowded. Round tables are also very sociable, as everyone can see and talk to one another easily.

They’re particularly useful in breakfast areas, bay windows and smaller kitchen-diners.

There’s a limit to how effectively they scale up, though. Once a round table becomes very large, the distance across the centre can make passing dishes and holding conversations less convenient.

Square Dining Tables

Square tables work particularly well in square rooms and compact dining areas.

A table measuring around 90–110cm square can comfortably accommodate four people and creates an intimate arrangement.

Larger square tables are less common because they take up a considerable amount of floor space. A 150cm square table, for example, requires a much larger room than you might initially expect once you’ve allowed for chairs and circulation.

Oval Dining Tables

An oval dining table offers an appealing compromise between rectangular and round designs.

You get much of the seating capacity of a rectangular table but without hard corners projecting into circulation areas. This can make an oval table particularly useful in narrow dining rooms or busy open-plan spaces.

The curved shape can also visually soften a room dominated by straight kitchen cabinetry, shelving and architectural lines.

Don’t Forget to Measure Your Dining Chairs

One of the easiest mistakes to make when buying a dining table is measuring the table carefully but barely considering the chairs.

Dining chairs vary enormously in size.

A slim armless chair may be only around 45cm wide, while a generous upholstered dining chair with arms could be 60cm wide or more. Six bulky chairs therefore require significantly more room than six slim designs.

Measure the:

  • Overall chair width
  • Chair depth
  • Chair height
  • Seat height
  • Arm height, if applicable

Check that the chairs can slide underneath the tabletop without the arms hitting the table apron.

Also look at the position of the table legs. A 180cm table doesn’t automatically provide 180cm of usable seating space if chunky legs are positioned well inside each end.

This is particularly important if you’re planning to use mismatched dining chairs, as different chair widths and shapes can affect how many fit comfortably around the table.

Table Legs and Pedestal Bases Can Change How Many People Fit

Two tables with identical dimensions can offer very different amounts of usable seating.

Traditional four-legged tables may restrict where chairs can be positioned, especially when someone needs to sit close to a corner.

Trestle tables can have a similar problem if the supports are positioned close to the ends.

pedestal table often provides more flexibility because there are no corner legs competing for space with diners’ knees and chair legs. This is one reason pedestal bases work particularly well for round tables.

Before buying, look underneath the table rather than focusing solely on its external measurements.

Should You Choose an Extending Dining Table?

For many modern homes, extendable dining tables offer the best balance between everyday comfort and occasional entertaining.

Rather than dedicating a large proportion of the room to a table for eight when only two or four people normally use it for everyday meals, you can keep the table relatively compact most of the time and extend it when guests arrive.

There are several types of extension tables available, including:

  • Butterfly extensions stored within the table
  • Removable extension leaves
  • Draw-leaf tables
  • Drop-leaf tables
  • Console tables that convert into dining tables

When measuring for an extending table, always check its fully extended dimensions.

It’s no use having a clever table that seats eight if extending it blocks the kitchen doorway or leaves guests trapped against the wall.

Also check where the extension leaves are stored. Some fit neatly inside the table, while others need to be kept elsewhere, so ensure you have somewhere suitable and easily accessible to store the extendable sections.

Choosing a Dining Table for a Small Space

A small dining area doesn’t necessarily mean sacrificing comfortable dining.

The key is to avoid choosing furniture that’s unnecessarily bulky.

Consider tables with slender legs, pedestal bases or visually lightweight materials. Being able to see more floor underneath and around the furniture can help a compact room feel more spacious.

Round and oval tables are particularly useful where circulation is tight because there are no sharp corners to negotiate.

An extending table is another practical option. Alternatively, a drop-leaf design can sit against a wall when not in use.

You can also combine conventional chairs with a dining bench. A bench can often be pushed completely underneath the table, freeing up valuable floor space between meals.

Don’t automatically choose the smallest table you can find, though. A tiny table surrounded by undersized furniture can actually emphasise the limited dimensions of the room. One appropriately scaled standard height table often looks more confident and considered.

Dining Tables for Open-Plan Kitchen-Diners

Open-plan spaces present a slightly different challenge because there may be plenty of overall floor area but several competing functions.

Your dining table needs to work alongside kitchen cabinetry, islands, sofas, doors and major circulation routes.

Start by identifying the boundaries of the dining zone rather than treating the whole open-plan room as one large rectangle.

Pay particular attention to the distance between the table and a kitchen island. This is often a busy walkway, particularly when people are cooking, loading the dishwasher or opening drawers.

If stools are positioned at the island as well, allow for people sitting on both sides of the gap.

The shape of your table can also help define the dining zone. A rectangular table positioned parallel to an island creates a neat sense of order, while a round or oval design introduces softer lines and can distinguish the dining area from the kitchen.

A rug underneath the table can provide further visual definition, provided it’s large enough for the dining chairs to remain on the rug when they’re pulled out.

What About Dining Tables in Multi-Purpose Rooms?

Many dining tables have a second life as desks, homework stations, craft tables and places to sort out paperwork.

If that’s true in your home, factor it into your dining table size decision.

A table that’s just large enough for four dinner plates may feel frustratingly cramped when you’re using a laptop, notebooks and paperwork.

You may benefit from a slightly deeper or longer table, particularly if several people regularly use it simultaneously.

Consider storage too. A nearby sideboard or cupboard can prevent everyday work equipment from permanently colonising the dining table.

Try the Table Size on the Floor Before Buying

Using masking tape to map out available space for a dining room table

One of the simplest ways to avoid buying the wrong table is to recreate its footprint before ordering it.

Use masking tape or painter’s tape to mark the proposed table dimensions on the floor.

Then place your existing chairs around the outline, if you have them, and pull them out as though someone were sitting down.

Walk around and assess the room layout. 

Can you comfortably get to the kitchen? Can the doors open? Can someone walk behind a chair? Can you easily walk around the side of the table? Does the table look appropriately proportioned?

You can go a step further and place flattened cardboard boxes or sheets of newspaper within the taped outline. Seeing a solid area on the floor often gives a much stronger impression of scale than tape alone.

Live with the outline for a day or two if possible. You’ll quickly discover whether it’s positioned in the path you naturally take through the room and whether or not it’s the right table size for your home.

Common Dining Table Sizing Mistakes

Even when the table technically fits, a few common mistakes can make the finished dining area less comfortable.

Choosing for occasional guests rather than everyday life. If four people live in the house, you probably don’t need a permanent ten-seater simply because the whole family visits at Christmas. An extending table is usually more practical.

Forgetting chair clearance. The table footprint is only part of the equation. Chairs need room to move backwards.

Ignoring circulation routes. Think about how people actually move between the kitchen, dining area, sitting room and garden.

Measuring the room but not the furniture. Sideboards, radiators and kitchen islands all reduce the usable floor area.

Ignoring table-leg positions. Legs can turn what appears to be a six-seater into a frustrating four-seater.

Choosing oversized dining chairs. Large upholstered chairs can be beautiful, but make sure there’s enough room for them around your chosen table.

Buying purely by seating capacity. A retailer’s “six-seater” isn’t a universal measurement. Always check the actual dimensions.

Dining Table Size Checklist

Before ordering your table, check:

  • I’ve measured the usable dining area, not just the entire room.
  • I’ve allowed approximately 90cm around the table where possible.
  • I’ve allowed extra space where people regularly walk behind chairs.
  • I’ve measured the dining chairs as well as the table.
  • I’ve checked the position of the table legs or pedestal.
  • I’ve considered doors, radiators and surrounding furniture.
  • I’ve checked important circulation routes.
  • I’ve considered how many people use the table every day.
  • I’ve considered an extending table if I only occasionally need extra seats.
  • I’ve checked the table’s fully extended dimensions.
  • I’ve marked the proposed dimensions on the floor before buying.

Finding the Right Balance

Choosing the right dining table size for a modern dining space is ultimately about balancing seating capacity with breathing space.

It’s tempting to buy the largest table that will physically fit into a room, but bigger isn’t necessarily better. A slightly smaller table surrounded by comfortable circulation space will usually make a dining area feel more inviting and easier to use.

Start with the people who eat at the table every day, allow roughly 60cm of table space per diner, and aim for around 90cm of clearance around the table wherever your room allows.

Then think beyond the measurements. Consider the shape of the room, the width of your chairs, the position of the table legs and the way people move through the space.

Get those details right and your dining table won’t simply fit your room — it will feel as though it was chosen specifically for it.

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Molly Mae’s bedroom transformation proves she really is a master of neutrals – she’s turned a cold, icy room into a warm and elegant retreat

Molly Mae’s bedroom transformation proves she really is a master of neutrals – she’s turned a cold, icy room into a warm and elegant retreat

Molly Mae has become synonymous with cosy minimalism, and her recent bedroom transformation is no exception. She turned a cold and icy space into warm, old-money elegance.

If you’re in need of new bedroom ideas, influencer and businesswoman Molly Mae Hague has shown that you don’t need a full-blown renovation; a fresh lick of paint and a few design tricks can completely transform your sleep space.

The Ideal Home team raved about Molly’s last neutral bedroom, and this most recent transformation shows she’s not lost her gift. If you want warm, cosy bedroom inspiration, here’s why Molly Mae’s is where you should look.

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Posting the before-and-after photos on her home Instagram @mollymaison, Molly explained that while there was absolutely nothing wrong with the space before, she was planning to stay in her home for a long time, so she wanted something ‘that feels completely like us’.

There’s an undeniable difference between the two rooms. While the layout hasn’t changed, Molly Mae’s switch to warmer-toned colours and natural finishes gives the room a far cosier, yet luxurious look.

White bedroom white rattan bed and rug

(Image credit: Future PLC / Maxwell Attenborough)

‘The original bedroom’s cool greys, reflective surfaces and sharper contrasts gave it a sleek, contemporary hotel feel, but it could also appear slightly icy and impersonal. The finished bedroom feels softer, warmer and much more established. The natural timber, creamy neutrals, layered textiles and traditional furniture shapes give it the character associated with the ‘old-money’ aesthetic,’ says Melanie Whetstone, in-house interior design expert at British Bedmakers Get Laid Beds. Melanie also designed the house prior to Molly Mae moving in.

‘The warmer scheme also feels better suited to the proportions of the room. The bed provides a strong visual anchor, while the deeper wood tones prevent such a large space from feeling empty or overly polished. It now feels like a private retreat rather than simply an impressive room.

‘It is also a more tactile space. Timber grain, soft bedding, upholstery and layered fabrics bring sensory warmth, which is particularly important in a bedroom. The styling feels luxurious without being showy, and the combination of traditional forms with a restrained modern palette gives the room a timeless quality. Ultimately, it feels designed around rest rather than display.’

Is Molly Mae a good example to follow?

If you plan on decorating with neutrals, Molly Mae is always a good example to follow. She transformed her bedroom into a space that is both welcoming and screams old money sophistication.

And it’s for this reason that Marianne Shillingford, Creative Director and Colour Expert at Dulux, prefers the renovated bedroom, too.

Bedroom with unfinished plaster walls, black shutters on the window on the left and a white double bed on the right

(Image credit: Future PLC/James French)

‘They’re both beautifully considered, but for a bedroom I’d lean towards the new design. There’s something very comforting about those warm cream tones, particularly when they’re paired with natural materials and softer lighting. A bedroom is ultimately somewhere we want to unwind at the end of the day, and this palette creates that sense of calm without the room feeling bland or lacking in character,’ she says.

‘What works so well in the finished room is the layering. Rather than relying on one colour or one statement feature, you’ve got warm neutral tones sitting alongside wood, linen, soft upholstery and pools of lamplight, which gives the room depth without making it feel busy

‘It’s also a really timeless approach to decorating. When you build a decorating scheme around a considered palette and beautiful natural textures, rather than lots of competing trends, you create something that feels stylish now but will still feel lovely to live with for years to come.’

Get the look

While I normally opt for a splash of colour, I have to say Molly Mae has nailed the cosy neutral look. I’ll definitely be using her for inspiration for my own bedroom this autumn.