‘Wildlife wineries’ are the breakout trend gardeners are using to keep garden birds hydrated in August – this £15 shortcut means even tiny spaces can join in

‘Wildlife wineries’ are the breakout trend gardeners are using to keep garden birds hydrated in August – this £15 shortcut means even tiny spaces can join in

From hydration stations, bird bars and even wildlife wineries, there are plenty of cutesy names to call the bird baths we set up for wildlife to bathe, drink and play in during summer. However, if you have a tiny garden or balcony, it might feel like you can’t join in.

Luckily, I’m here to tell you the opposite. Corner bird baths are the space-saving solution that means even the smallest of outdoor spaces can attract birds via their own wildlife wineries (or whatever your preferred name is!).

Silly names aside, during periods of hot weather and drought, it’s incredibly important to leave water out for birds and other wildlife to help them stay healthy and hydrated. Here’s why a corner bird bath can be a great option if you’re short on space.

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Just because you have a small garden, it doesn’t mean you can’t embrace wildlife garden ideas. Leaving out water is essential during summer for birds, bees, insects and other wildlife – especially when there hasn’t been much rainfall.

This summer, wildlife charities, experts and social media have been encouraging gardeners to set up hydration stations for birds and other wildlife during a heatwave. And with it, I’ve seen a host of adorable names, such as pollinator pitstops, bee bars and now wildlife wineries. While they all mean the same thing, they aim to encourage us to help wildlife by providing fresh water.

If you want to support birds in hot weather, offering a fresh water supply can be a real help when supplies are scarce in nature. You will need to change the water every couple of days to keep it fresh and free from algae and mosquitoes, but your local birds will really benefit from having somewhere to wash, bathe and space.

Three sparrows enjoying a bird bath

It’s important to provide water during summer so birds can clean themselves, play and drink.

If you lack the space for a free-standing bird bath, a corner bath can come in handy. As the name suggests, a corner bird bath attaches to a fence post or corner, taking up minimal space in your garden

Then, you can fill it with either water or bird food to create an integrated feeding station or bird bath. One of the biggest mistakes you can make when leaving water out for wildlife is assuming you need a large vessel. Even a small dish of water can make a big difference for wildlife. Just remember, if you want bees to also enjoy your wildlife winery, add some pebbles to your dish so they have somewhere to land and prevent drowning.

Alternatively, a micro pond can be a great choice for courtyards and patios as you can create a stunning water feature that wildlife will love.

Small wildlife garden essentials

Just because you have a small garden, it doesn’t mean you can’t make into a haven for wildlife.

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Gardeners warned to avoid this one lawn care job during a heatwave or risk destroying their grass – it sounds like a good idea, but it’s best avoided

Gardeners warned to avoid this one lawn care job during a heatwave or risk destroying their grass – it sounds like a good idea, but it’s best avoided

A lawn expert is warning against fertilising your grass during a heatwave, stating that it will do far more damage than good.

With drought declared across England and Wales, there are undoubtedly a lot of dry, patchy lawns that have been struggling with the relentless heat. And while we all want to enlist the best August lawn care tips to restore our grass to its former glory. But fertilising your lawn is one task you must avoid during a heatwave.

You may assume giving your grass a good feed this month will help give it a boost. That is wrong; fertilising your lawn now can stress your grass even more, making it take even longer to recover.

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Why can’t your fertilise a lawn during a heatwave?

During a heatwave or drought conditions, your grass is essentially in survival mode and adding fertiliser can put an unnecessary strain on your lawn, making it a garden job you should never do in a heatwave.

Pink bistro set on a lawn in front of a black shed, with large bushes and plants growing either side

(Image credit: Future PLC/James Merrell)

‘Fertilising a lawn with a granular feed during a heatwave is one of the quickest ways to make a lawn worse, not better,’ explains Matt J Adams, founder and lead gardener at The Relentless Gardener.

‘It can be tempting to feed your lawn when it starts looking brown or patchy, as many gardeners assume it simply needs a boost of nutrients to green up again. In reality, the grass is in survival mode, and applying fertilisers to dry, stressed turf can scorch the blades, placing even more pressure on the roots and delaying recovery.

Instead, if you want to protect your lawn in a heatwave, you should water it deeply once or twice a week and early in the morning. You could also consider using a wetting agent (£19.99, B&Q), which aids your lawn in absorbing water and reduces runoff. Pros also recommend raising your mower blades to leave your grass a bit longer. This helps shade the soil and helps it retain moisture.

‘Grass going brown during a prolonged dry spell is one of the most misunderstood things in lawn care. What you’re actually seeing is dormancy: the grass basically going into survival mode, which to the eye looks like putting all its energy into protecting the root, not a shiny green grass blade,’ adds Ashleigh Bradshaw, Lawn Specialist at Hayter.

‘The lawn will very likely recover once regular rainfall returns, often within a few weeks. The danger is overreacting. Heavy watering, feeding and scarifying during active dormancy tends to do more damage than the drought itself.’

When should you fertilise a lawn?

Of course, lawns do benefit from feeding; you just need to know when to fertilise a lawn. Matt says to hold your horses until the weather has cooled down. Most experts recommend feeding your lawn once in spring and once in autumn.

Planted border surrounding grass lawn in garden

(Image credit: Future PLC/Polly Eltes Photography)

‘The best time to fertilise is once the hot weather has passed, temperatures have cooled, and ideally after rainfall has returned so the lawn is actively growing again. Spring is the ideal time to encourage new growth, while a slow nitrogen-releasing feed can also help replenish nutrients after a dry spell, provided the soil is no longer extremely dry. The Relentless Gardener’s Summer Liquid Lawn Feed is specially designed to be applied during warmer weather but can only be used if the lawn is not already brown,’ he says.

While fertilising your lawn might sound like a good idea right now, it’s really not. Put the feed away, wait till autumn and focus on watering right now.

You’re doubling the number of ants in your garden by falling for this pest deterrent mistake, warn experts

You’re doubling the number of ants in your garden by falling for this pest deterrent mistake, warn experts

If you thought destroying an ant’s nest in your garden was the swiftest and most direct route to rid your garden of ants, according to pest experts, you could actually be making the problem worse.

If your garden has been overrun this summer, it’s only natural that you want to know how to get rid of ants. But, a little like cutting off the head of a hydra, when you remove one ant’s nest, another will crop up in its place.

So, before you go ahead and destroy a nest, this is everything the experts want you to know first.

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Does destroying an ant’s nest make the problem worse?

The main reason ants will move into the site of an old nest is because they are highly territorial, and if the area has the perfect homebuilding conditions and food supplies, it’s incredibly attractive for ants.

Ants on a garden planter

(Image credit: Getty Images/Jenny Dettrick)

‘Destroying a nest without killing the queen achieves very little in the long term. Worker ants will regroup, the queen will relocate, and a new nest will be established nearby, often within days. In some cases, disrupting a large established colony can cause it to split into multiple satellite nests, which means you can end up with more ant activity across a wider area than you started with. This is one of the most common mistakes people make when dealing with garden ants,’ explains Mosh Latifi, co-owner of EcoCare Pest Management.

‘If the original colony has been properly eliminated, the territory will not go unclaimed for long. Ant colonies are highly territorial, but if a space becomes available, neighbouring colonies will expand into it. In a garden with good foraging conditions, some level of ant presence is essentially inevitable. The goal is management rather than eradication.’

While you can use scents to deter ants or use natural methods like diatomaceous earth to keep them away from your home, remember that ants are a natural part of any garden ecosystem and therefore don’t necessarily need removing.

Ants on tiled floor.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

‘Ants are a natural part of the garden ecosystem and, in many cases, don’t require control unless they are becoming a nuisance or contributing to problems elsewhere, such as repeatedly entering the home. Before considering treatment, it’s worth assessing whether the ants are actually causing an issue. If they are, the focus should be on locating and treating the source of the colony rather than only dealing with the ants that are visible,’ says Daniel Steward, Managing Director at Shield Pest Control.

‘The most effective long-term approach is to identify and deal with the nest itself while also removing whatever is attracting the ants to the area. Natural deterrents such as peppermint oil, tea tree oil or diluted white vinegar can help disrupt pheromone trails and discourage ants from returning to treated areas, although they require regular reapplication and are not permanent solutions.

‘Nematodes are sometimes suggested as a biological control method, but their effectiveness can vary depending on the ant species and environmental conditions. For established infestations, targeted treatment of the colony is generally more reliable than relying on nematodes alone.’

Unless they’re genuinely causing problems in your home, ants don’t need to be removed from a garden. If you do find yourself with a pest problem, it’s best to consult the professionals first.

The RHS could move its hydrangeas to the north of England due to rising temperatures – but can these plants still thrive in the south?

The RHS could move its hydrangeas to the north of England due to rising temperatures – but can these plants still thrive in the south?

Thanks to the UK’s increasingly hot summers, the RHS is considering relocating its Wisley hydrangeas to its northern Gardens. It’s a concerning move for hydrangea lovers in the south – but that doesn’t mean we should give up on our plants.

When you’re deciding where to plant hydrangeas, it’s always worth remembering that they’re woodland plants by nature, and they thrive in light shade. That means heatwaves and droughts are tricky conditions for the shrubs – but does that mean they’re no longer suitable for southern gardens?

Luckily, the answer is no. We spoke to RHS chief horticultural advisor Guy Barter to find out which varieties are most likely to thrive in southern gardens – and how to save the hydrangeas we already have.

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A garden with seating and a hydrangea bush at front

(Image credit: Future PLC/James Merrell)

This summer’s been a scorcher, and although there are ways to look after hydrangeas in a heatwave, I’ve spotted a lot of brown plants lately.

It makes sense, then, that the UK’s leading gardening charity is thinking about rehoming its RHS Wisley hydrangea collections in the north. We asked Guy about what’s motivating the move.

‘RHS Wisley is a very dry area,’ Guy said. ‘It’s got very dry, sandy soil, so some hydrangea varieties in some parts of the garden can be under pressure in hot, dry weather. Rather than giving ourselves a lot of work to keep them watered and cared for, we’re thinking about relocating them to our northern gardens, where it’s moister, the soil is more water-retentive, and they’ll need less looking after.’

It’s no secret that hydrangeas are perfect for damp gardens, and that’s where they’ll put on their best displays. That’s why RHS Wisley is going to keep some hydrangeas on its north-facing slopes, for example – and you might already be growing your plants in similar conditions.

Panicled hydrangea

(Image credit: Getty Images / piotrmilewski)

‘In many cases, hydrangeas will be growing in quite clay soil,’ said Guy. ‘They’ll be growing on north-facing slopes in light shade, perhaps from the house or a wall, so they’ll be in good condition already.’

Some species perform better in hot, dry conditions though.

‘Hydrangea paniculata is a little bit tougher than the mopheads and lacecaps, and that’s one of the ones we use a lot at Wisley,’ said Guy.

Hydrangea paniculata ‘Vanilla Fraise’, which you can buy from Gardening Express, is a popular variety. It produces gorgeous, pyramid-shaped clusters of white-to-pink flowers. For potted plants that can be moved around the garden, Guy recommended Hydrangea serrata ‘Bluebird’ (available at Thompson & Morgan) for silvery blue flowerheads.

close up of white hydrangea

(Image credit: Future PLC / Colin Poole)

If you’ve already planted your hydrangea and it’s struggling, Guy says a few August hydrangea care tasks can help get them back on track.

‘Keep watering, give them liquid fertiliser every fortnight if the potted ones aren’t looking good, and if they’re getting scorched, move the pot somewhere shadier,’ he said.

Most importantly, Guy told us that it’s not the end of hydrangeas in the south.

‘Remember that we’re on the way down from summer now, so the nights are going to get longer and dewier, and the conditions are going to naturally get better for hydrangeas,’ Guy told us. ‘So, it’s well worth persisting and keeping them going.’

What you’ll need


The RHS’ news isn’t a sentence for hydrangeas in the south, but it does mean it’s wise to become more mindful about the way we grow the shrubs and the varieties that perform best in tough summers.

5 hidden fire risks that could destroy your garden during a heatwave – how to keep your home and family safe

5 hidden fire risks that could destroy your garden during a heatwave – how to keep your home and family safe

It’s been a hot summer with less rain than average, which means there is an increased risk of fire in your garden. So, I asked garden experts to share the hidden fire risks in a garden during a heatwave, and these are the five things they said.

Prolonged heat and dry weather can turn your garden into a fire risk, as dried-out grass, wooden fencing and even compost heaps become more flammable during a heatwave.

So, if you’re looking to heatproof your garden this summer and maintain a safe environment, here are five risks you need to be aware of.

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1. Garden mirrors

While garden mirrors can be used as a clever trick to make your garden look bigger, they can also increase your risk of fire during periods of hot, dry weather.

Gravel path through the garden leading to a seating area with table and chairs beside a green wall. Garden redesign of a small city garden in London, owned by Rosie Money-Coutts.

(Image credit: Future PLC/Lizzie Orme Photography Ltd)

‘If a mirror or reflective ornament is positioned in direct sunlight, it can create intense hot spots, so it’s best to move them away from dry plants, fences and sheds as a precaution,’ says Luke Newnes, garden expert at Hillarys.

Plus, birds are vulnerable to flying into mirrors, so they are best avoided if you have a wildlife garden anyway.

2. BBQs

While the best BBQs are a summer staple, it’s also unsurprising that they carry a great fire risk, too. So, if you plan on grilling up a storm, you need to be aware of the safety risks, too.

Wall beside raised beds with a stainless steel barbeque inset, roses and fig growing up sheds. Susan and Henry Parker's garden at their four bedroom Victorian house in Fulham, London.

(Image credit: Future PLC/David Giles Photography Ltd)

‘Safety is an absolute must when it comes to using your fire pit or BBQ, especially during hot and dry conditions. While positioning it near seating is great for making the most of the equipment, avoid placing it too close to ensure everyone stays a safe distance from the heat and fire. Aim for at least seven feet between the seating and the fire pit or BBQ,’ says Adam Oldfield from outdoor living specialists StovesAreUs.

‘You should also position it in an area with ample clearance from surrounding hedges, trees, sheds, and the house to minimise fire hazards and ensure proper ventilation. You should position fire pits, BBQs and outdoor heaters on level ground, away from foot traffic and avoid placing them on grass or wooden decking. In regards to BBQs, never use petrol or other accelerants to start a fire, and only burn high-quality charcoal that is intended for BBQs. Keep a safe distance while lighting, and allow coals to cool completely before disposing of them.’

3. Outdoor electrical equipment

Heat and electricals don’t tend to mesh well together, so make sure to check your garden lighting, cables and tools for damage, and ensure they don’t overheat, either.

A living wall, framework with plants, vertical planting, above a sunken seating area in an urban garden

(Image credit: Future PLC/Dominic Blackmore)

‘Outdoor electrical equipment is another area that deserves attention. Garden lighting, extension cables and water feature pumps are easy to forget about, particularly if they’ve been outside for several seasons. If something is damaged or weathered, hot conditions can make problems worse, so it’s worth giving everything a quick check and switching off anything that isn’t needed,’ says Luke.

4. Garden waste

Right now, gardens will be very dry, making your garden waste, for example grass cuttings, more flammable.

autumn garden with wooden compost bin

(Image credit: Alamy)

‘Keeping your garden well-maintained can help reduce the risk of fire. Keep lawns short around patios, sheds and fences, and remove any piles of dry grass clippings. If conditions are particularly hot and dry, avoid using petrol lawn mowers, as hot engines can ignite dry material,’ says Tom Douglas, Senior Gardening Buyer, Plant Buyer at Cherry Lane Garden Centres.

‘Clear away dry leaves and garden debris from around decking, fences and outdoor seating areas, and make sure barbecues and fire pits are positioned well away from anything flammable. Where possible, replace mulch with gravel around cooking and entertaining areas, as gravel is far less likely to catch fire.

‘Compost heaps can also generate heat, so keep them moist during prolonged dry spells and turn them regularly to release any built-up heat.’

5. BBQ and fire pit ash

Lastly, as well as your BBQ, you need to keep an eye on its ash as well. This means not disposing of ash straight away, and allowing it to fully cool first.

Small garden with wooden outdoor seating, fire-pit and wooden boardwalk on white gravel, black wooden fence

(Image credit: Future PLC/Colin Poole)

‘Old barbecue ash is another commonly overlooked risk. Many people assume everything is safe once the flames have gone out, but charcoal and ash can hold heat for longer than expected. During a dry spell, it’s always worth making sure barbecues, fire pits and ash containers have completely cooled and been stored safely,’ says Luke.

Garden cooling essentials

‘Prolonged heat and dry weather can quickly turn an ordinary garden into a fire risk, as dried-out lawns, timber fencing, compost heaps and decorative mulch can all become highly combustible during a heatwave,’ Tom concludes.

So, it’s important to assess the risks facing your garden and act accordingly. As always, prevention is better than a cure.