Over the years, I’ve shared more than 500 Simple Solutions — many of them have to do with painting specifically painting neatly.
And over time, many Today’s Homeowner fans have shared their own solutions on how to make painting easier.
This tip from John from Clancy, Montana, will help you paint neatly from a can using a paintbrush.
The challenge when dipping a paintbrush in a can is how to keep the paint from dripping around the rim. Not only do you waste paint, but you also make a mess on the outside of the paint can and the surface underneath it.
To prevent any paint from dripping down the side of the can, create a built-in paint scraper in the center of the can. Here’s how to do it:
Painting rusted metal windows takes time and patience. If you do it right, it will last a long time.
Painting old metal window frames that are rusted and stuck with decades-old glaze is not for the faint of heart, but can be done.
Mary from Magnolia Springs, Ala., lives in her grandparents’ 1941 home and needs advice on painting the metal cranking windows in the home.
Before painting metal windows, you need to remove the aging caulk. (Photo courtesy of Mary)
Remove Old Glaze
First, you need to start by removing as much of that old glaze on the metal window frames as you can. The good thing about working on metal rather than wood is you can be relatively aggressive when removing the glaze. Use a Dremel tool with an abrasive end to get the old glaze off.
To remove the glaze in the inner corners closest to the window glass, use a small disc grinder. Be sure to wear a full face mask and a respirator. Because of the age of the windows, you never know if there is a risk of you being exposed to lead in the original glaze.
You can also steam the metal window frames with a wallpaper steamer or regular steamer to soften up the glaze. This will take several minutes, but you should be able to remove a good bit with a putty knife afterward. Intact glazing that is not badly cracked can be left behind.
A fresh coat of glaze on metal windows will give you an even surface for painting.
Apply Fresh Glaze
Next, you need to prep your metal window frames for painting. Find some window glaze that comes in a tube with a square nozzle. This will make it easier and cleaner to apply to the metal closest to the windows than dipping the glass from a can and using a brush. DAP makes latex window glazing with this kind of nozzle that is paintable and weather-resistant.
Another trick when applying tubed glaze is to make sure the container is nice and warm. All you need to do is store it in your home to make sure it’s at least 70 to 80 degrees. This will make squeezing the thick glaze out of the tube easier.
Once you have the innermost lines of your window glazed, spread the rest of the metal frame with DAP 33 Window Glaze with a putty knife to even out the surface for painting.
Attention to detail is a must, so this step in painting the metal window frames will take some time.
Oil-based, rust-resistant primer will keep your metal windows looking fresh.
Prime and Paint
Next, you will need to prime the metal window frames for painting. Use an oil-based, rust-resistant primer. oil-based paint as well because it provides a smooth surface and can be used to cover up any existing flaws
For your top coat, use 100-percent acrylic paint.
If you’re diligent and follow these steps, the repair project will last a long time.
Skip to [30:53]for the full segment on the Today’s Homeowner Podcast.
Also on this episode:
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Simple Solutions
Sawhorse Saddle — To prevent sawhorses from scratching up finished pieces, such as a painted door or cabinet, try covering the sawhorses with pool noodles. Use a serrated bread knife to cut a pool noodle about an inch longer than the horizontal rail on each sawhorse. Next, cut a slit along the length of the noodles with a utility knife. Then, slip one pool noodle onto the rail of each sawhorse. The soft pool noodle grips on tightly and will protect workpieces from dings, dents and scratches. And when you’re done, simply pop off the pool noodles and you’re back to a pair of standard wooden sawhorses.
Tarp Tie-Down — To prevent plastic tarps from being blown away, try this trick: Fill a few one-liter plastic bottles with sand or water, then tie one bottle to each corner of the tarp, and one or two in between on larger tarps. The weighted bottles will hold the tarp securely place.
Question of the Week
Q: How is a hybrid water heater different from a regular water heater?
A: A hybrid water heater is an electric water heater equipped with a heat pump. The pump captures heat from room air and transfers it to the cold water entering the water heater. This system makes it so the water heater element doesn’t have to work as hard and, therefore, uses less energy.
Other Products and Links Mentioned
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Ask a Question! (Podcast)
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If you want to give your concrete porch some extra flair, paint a pattern on it! Using a stencil makes this a do-it-yourself friendly project.
You don’t need special skills or tools to tackle this project, but do you need patience and time, because attention to detail is a must!
Materials Needed
Stencil kit
Paint
Paint roller
Tape
1. Pick a Pattern
Before you begin, find a pattern you like. The stencil kit we’re using on this project includes two pattern types: a smaller version for edges and a larger version for wide-open spaces.
Registration marks on the stencil edges ensure proper alignment for the next application.
The key to painting an even pattern is to perfect the stencil’s position.
2. Perfect the Position
Remember that attention to detail? It starts before you even paint a thing!
Precision is key, so it’s important to carefully tape the stencil in the middle of the space, and then work toward the edges.
Working from the inside out helps to keep the pattern even across the entire surface.
When you paint over the stencil, do so in one direction — never back and forth.
3. Paint, Paint, Paint
Paint over the surface in one direction. We’re using a One Part Epoxy Coating designed specifically for concrete.
To avoid bleed-through, remove the excess paint from the roller each time you dip it in the tray. It’s also a good idea to wipe the paint off the underside of the stencil after each application.
For sharp pattern edges and a clean look, take your time while applying, removing and painting the stencil.
This formerly plain concrete floor now has some style, and the transformation cost less than $100!
Costs
It doesn’t cost much to transform an old, worn-out concrete porch into a stylish surface for gliders, rocking chairs and outdoor sofas.
Here’s what you can expect to pay for this project:
Ingredients are key when it comes to purchasing good-quality paint.
A thin film of good paint, only a few thousandths of an inch thick, protects, seals, hides, decorates and is not hazardous to the user. It gives surfaces long-term protection at a very moderate price, for some.
It’s in millions of homes and businesses, in nearly all rooms. So, what’s in that paint you’re putting on your walls?
Here are the three main ingredients you should know about!
Pigment
Pigment is the ingredient most people first consider when purchasing paint. It provides the texture, color and hiding properties of the paint.
Pigments actually used to be pretty dangerous and included: lead, chromates and asbestos. Dangerous pigments are in very rare use and are outlawed in most places. Titanium dioxide and iron oxides are safe, high-grade pigments and are found in better quality paints. Clay and silica are also used but don’t hold up as well.
Cheaper pigment materials cannot be ground as finely as the better pigments can be ground. You can actually tell whether paint is good or not by rubbing it between the tips of your thumb and index finger. If it feels gritty, it more than likely contains either a cheap pigment or lot of cheap filler — like clay.
Paints with cheaper pigment materials will not normally last as long as paint that contains mostly titanium dioxide or iron oxides, which tests very smooth to the touch.
Binder
The paint ingredient that holds everything together is called the binder.
Linseed oil is usually the binder in oil-based paint, which is frequently mixed with one or more other vegetable oils.
However, in water-based paint, one popular binder is polyvinyl acetate (white glue). Also, there is a latex undercoating called PVA which is short for Poly Vinyl Acetate.
Solvent
The solvent in water-based paint is water. In oil-based paint, the solvent is thinner (petrochemical distillate).
When the water is evaporating out of latex paint and when the thinner is evaporating out of oil base paint both processes are referred to as drying. Before they evaporate, the solvents keep their respective pigments and binders in solution and help them penetrate deeply into the surface.
After the solvents have evaporated, they leave a thin hardened layer of pigment and binder that we know as paint.
Other Paint Qualities
There are other additives that help flow, reduce bubbles, control consistency, etc., but remember good paints are not gritty.
Here’s another test you can make. Apply a spot of good paint to any surface. Apply a spot of cheap paint next to it. Once the it has dried completely, put a drop of food coloring onto each spot. The good paint will hold the food coloring together. The cheap one will allow the food coloring to spread.
If you’re like most people, your home is the single biggest investment that you will make in a lifetime. Therefore, it makes good sense to do everything that you can to take good care of this prized possession.
People who get the best return on their investment – when it comes time to sell – don’t wait for the roof to leak or paint to peel. They perform regular home maintenance that preserves the structural integrity of their home. Regular maintenance also keeps a home looking spiffy which also has a lot to do with its value.
Painting is a maintenance task that offers one of the best returns for the home maintenance and appearance buck – inside or out. However, a fresh coat of house paint can transform an otherwise “plain Jane” home into the “show stopper” of the neighborhood. This can be especially true of a stucco home since stucco has special “problems” such as cracking, fading and efflorescence – not typical of other finishes.
Aside from enhancing a home’s appearance, a fresh coat of paint can help protect the home from the elements (sun, rain, snow, etc.) and the inevitable deterioration that occurs from prolonged exposure to these elements.
How often should you paint the exterior of your home? The answer depends on several factors, such as; exterior siding material, climate, sun exposure and the quality and type of paint used. With proper preparation and when using top-quality paint, a home will typically require painting every five to seven years. Darker shades (as with trim colors) may need repainting every couple of years to retain their original brilliance.
Choose Paint Quality and Color
Use colors that will enhance the architectural appearance of your home. The one or two-color schemes used in the past are just that – a thing of the past. A well-thought-out color “pallet” – using several colors or shades — can be visually pleasing by accentuating various architectural elements. For example, the barge, fascia and general trim can be painted one color, the overhang or soffit another, the body another and shutters (if they exist) another and a “punch” color for the entry door. A reputable paint dealer and/or a professional “color consultant” can be of tremendous help when choosing colors.
When it comes to paint quality, think of paint as an investment and not a cost. If you enjoy painting and want to paint your home often, buy inexpensive “generic” brands. We guarantee that you’ll be busy painting every year or so. If, on the other hand, you like paint, but would rather not enjoy the experience more often than every five to seven years, we suggest that you purchase the best paint that money will buy.
Good paint isn’t cheap! However, when you consider lasting quality and the protection that it offers your home, it’s a real bargain. Shop for a major name brand and plan to spend in the neighborhood of $25 per gallon.
Prepare Your Stucco
Preparation and paint application technique are no less important than the quality of the paint – this is especially true with stucco due to the concerns expressed earlier.
It doesn’t make any difference how good the paint is; it simply won’t stick unless the surface is clean. With stucco, we suggest a thorough power washing to clean the surface and remove chipped and peeling paint. Particularly dirty areas — such as the lowest section close to the ground — should be scrubbed with a coarse nylon brush and powdered laundry detergent. Use 1/3 cup to one gallon of hot water. Add a quart of bleach to this concoction if mildew is present.
Efflorescence — a white powdery substance that is common with stucco and masonry finishes — should be removed using a wire brush.
Repair cracks
The most challenging aspect of prepping a stucco house for painting is the crack repair. You can literally turn your home into an interstate road map of obvious crack repair if you aren’t cautious. When it comes to stucco crack repair “less is more.” First, don’t attempt to patch every crack. Hairline cracks and those that you can’t get your fingernail into should not be patched. Good quality paint should fill those cracks.
Wider cracks should be filled with a high-quality exterior-grade acrylic latex caulk. Have a damp sponge handy to wipe away excess caulking. There are two trade secrets that are a must when it comes to caulking stucco. First, when using a damp sponge to wipe off excess caulking, wipe in all directions to remove caulking that may be lodged in a textured finish. The other secret – while the caulking is still wet, place fine texturing sand into the palm of your hand and, holding your hand in front of the caulking, blow across the sand to scatter it onto the surface of the damp caulk. This will help make the patch less obvious and prevent the “road map” effect by helping the caulk blend into the surrounding finish.
Begin Painting
Stucco can be painted using a roller or with an airless sprayer – a brush is not recommended. A roller works well for small jobs, but can be overwhelming on larger projects. When it comes to big jobs consider using an airless sprayer. It makes putting paint on a breeze – especially on larger jobs. Don’t be so hasty to put your roller away when using a paint sprayer. Spraying will get the paint onto the surface. Use a deep nap roller (3/4 to 1”) to work the paint into the surface and to achieve a nice uniform surface.
Although one coat may do the trick, stucco will usually require two coats due to its high level of absorption and to conceal cracks and other repairs.
